June 20 Idaho

June 20th. Day 32.

Some fello 'merican cut firewood and burned it in his fire ring all night long.  I guess he was doing what he calls camping.  Unfortunately I was located down wind of him and was pretty well smoked by morning.  Fortunately his fire didn't escape the fire ring and torch off the dry grass hill I was camped on.



But hey!  It is morning, I'm out of that crappy campground and riding into a beautiful day.




I notice it is pretty easy to figure out what country I am in!




Also bread basket country.  Potatoes, I think!





And one of many wind farms.



Arriving in the small town of Touchet I notice this old gas pump first and then the bicycle powered lawn mower.  Nice!




Back on the road and more road kill.  I think this was a great horned owl.




Some clouds arrive and I am offered advice.  One photo and I press on.




The heat and humidity cause me to take a break and assume the pose against this building.  I'm trying to imitate the "resting cowboy" cut-out you see here and there.  But no.  Wrong hat!


After my break I suck it up and press on for Walla Walla.  Entering town on the old former highway I notice a VA sign with an arrow pointing up a side street.  Since I am getting low on some of my pills I decide to check it out.  After pedaling several blocks I notice a cop parked at a donut shop and ask him where the VA is located.  "Three more blocks up that street and take a right, you can't miss it."


Several more blocks and quite a few more to the right I finally enter the "Campus" of the Walla Wall VA!!  It is a huge, spread out, "Campus", no other word comes to mind.  I see a sign for "Human Resources", park my bicycle and enter the lobby.  The nice lady listens to my request and then draws me a map of where I need to go.  Back out of the air conditioned building and pedal around the large park like setting to the Admissions Building.  Park the bicycle where I can keep an eye on it and check in.


It turns out I have to go through the whole admittance rigmarol and need to take a number and wait for my name to be called.  After waiting an hour, I'm up.  Fortunately this building is air conditioned too.  Now the paper work is complete I can visit pharmacy and make my request.  Then it is just a matter of taking a number and waiting another hour for my pills!  A total of three hours out of my day but everyone was very helpful and friendly and, it got me through the heat of the day!


Peddling out of town I notice a nice looking Mexican Restaurant and decide to treat myself.  Chicken Enchilada, chips and salsa, one frosty Negra Modelo and I am a happy guy.  There was more than I could eat so I asked for a doggy bag and packed the left overs in my front right pannier.


Out into a hot afternoon ride out of Walla Walla through a bunch of road resurfacing, the hot asphalt sticky and slowing me down.




Just in case.....




I begin to notice how small towns have big schools.  This one in Dixie, WA, really went all out for their children back in the day.




The late afternoon, generic, Eastern Washington, bike touring photo.  Just had to stop and take one.





 What a surprise.  The little town of Waitsburg, WA.  No strip mall, no suburbs, just coast down a hill, turn a corner and here it is!  1940 all over again!



East of Waitsburg there is some amazing hillside farming.  I stop and watch a crop duster spraying the contours.  Pretty tricky flying!




Four and a half miles east of Waitsburg and Whoot!  Whoot!  Lewis and Clark Trail State Park!  A nice little road side campground.  A stream babbling nearby.  Shade!!




Perfect after a warm ride of 56.4 miles!!  Except for the crop duster.  Evidently the airport where he refills his hopper is nearby and every twenty minutes he flies right over my tent, his turbo-prop powered plane very loud but, by dusk, he has called it a day and, after my left over chicken enchilada, I call it a day too.

June 21st. Day 33.

 I decide to take a day off.  Such lovely weather and nice campsite.  After breakfast I decide to ride back to Waitsburg.  It was such a lovely looking town.


Along the way I discovere the source of the airplane noise.  A small airport business and




 an Air Tractor crop duster.  This is the one I saw working the hills last evening.




Riding further towards town I see another windmill blade heading my way and manage to get stopped and my camera out in time for this shot.




Here is the interior of the Waitsburg Hardware and Mercantile Store in downtown Waitsburg.  You name it, they got it!!




Right next door is this empty space just waiting to become an art gallery, or something.




Although it is a historic town they don't seem to have the same restrictions on exterior colors like, say, Mendocino!




I enter the market, buy some chocolate milk and fruit and retired to the shady city park.  Right across the street is the outdoor town pool!  Kids are swimming and moms are hovering and I don't take a photo.  Tempting but no.  I don't want to talked about as, "That pervert on a bike".  I read my book instead.




Heading back to camp I have to "document" this sign.




And this one!




Back in camp I give this Lewis and Clark Trail Campground a thumbs up!  Perfect in fact!




All my gear and I mean, all my gear, spread out and drying in the afternoon sun.

June 22nd. Day 34.

 Up and rolling after a great night of sleep.



I park my bicycle and back off far enough to try and encompass the whole grain elevator!  If I back up any farther to take this photo my bicycle will not show up in this photo!!



Entering the town of Dayton I see it is turning out to be a warm day, just like I figured!




The Dayton library and again, a frustrating blogging experience.




In the middle of town is this courthouse.and I am sitting at one of the outside tables at very nice deli enjoying my lunch.




Oops! Another windmill blade rolls by.  There sure are a lot of windmills being installed somewhere.




The Liberty Theater just down the block.  I'm reading my book, enjoying my lunch and shady spot when suddenly four bicycle tourists arrive.  I invite them to join me but they are on a budget and prefer to sit in the grass, in the shade, over by the courthouse.  I bus my mess and move over to join them.  Cece, her boy friend and two other cycling friends who all have a first name starting with C.  Therefore, Cece and the C's!!




They share a snackage of bagel, cheese, salami, cream cheese and fruit and invite me to join in.  They are from Portland but heading to New York.  Cece's father was killed during the World Trade Center disaster and they are all riding to New York to be there on the Anniversary, 11/11.  A great bunch of folks.  I talk them into a "silly" shot in front of the "Hall of Records" beside the courthouse.




Soon I press on while they check out the town.  Half an hour later, here they come and blow by.




 Leaving me to my solo contemplations, a windmill farm in the distance.




Hmmm, Which came first?  Starbuck or Starbucks?




Oh boy, it is turning out to be a very warm day.




More windmill towers being errected on hill tops. (click to embiggen)




More and more reference to Lewis and Clark.  It is interesting to think about them as I poke along averaging 7 miles per hour.  They probably traveled even slower.





 Towards the end of a very hot thirty-three mile day, I finally arrive in the small town of Pomeroy.  I roll up to the first mini market I see and enter their air-conditioned splendor!!  Yes, they have cold chocolate milk and yogurt, exactly what I am interested in.  I am also interested in a place to camp for the night.  I ask the young clerk; she doesn't know but refers me to the older lady stocking shelves.  She doesn't know either but thinks the fair grounds east of town might allow camping.

Thanks, and back out into the heat I go.


Continuing into the heart of town I see two middle aged men in suits standing in the shade. I roll up to them and soon get the feeling that one guy is the mayor and the other is a real estate agent, or not; probably just me and my automatic profiling.  Anyway, I tell them my story about how I have bicycled "all the way" from California (My ride is finally getting some gravitas!) and wonder if they can recommend a place I might camp for the night.


"Well sure!  Just go two blocks that way (pointing) and take a left.  Continue six blocks to the end of the road.  The town park is on the left.  There are restrooms and running water."


"Thanks!"


I arrive at the park and yes indeed, it is a nice little town park.  There is a sun shade over the picnic tables so I sit down in the shade and enjoy my chocolate milk and yogurt.  Then walk up to the restrooms and take a spit bath.  Feels great!


It is early evening but still quite light out.  I decide it might be a good idea to not look too "settled in" before it gets dark.


There is a golf course right across the street and golfers are slowly calling it a day and returning to their cars.  Some glance at me as they drive away.  I read my book and don't pay them any "overt" attention.


And then, here comes an older lady out for the evening walking her little dog.  Oh, oh!  This could be my eviction notice!  She leaves the sidewalk and walks straight up to me and asks,


"Are you planning to spend the night?"


"Er, um, well, I am hoping to."


Well, I just want you to know the sprinklers come on around midnight.  You might want to camp in the gazebo."








Perfect!
Yes indeed, Pomeroy is a, "Friendly City"!

June 23rd. Day 35.

 My Gazebo house worked perfectly although I got to listen in to a long drawn out domestic dispute from 10:00 to 11:00 culminating in a car door slam and burning rubber.  Warm evenings brings shouting partners out to where I can clearly hear them while everyone else is inside watching the evening news!



Up and on the road again,  I noticed this was for sale.  A bit much for my needs.




Pedaling along I happened upon this historical fact.




I compare the map to reality and think I can see the trail.



 

Getting pretty indistinct though.


And then I encounter a long long uphill.  And soon there are cyclists passing me one after another!!  Some say they will see me at the top.  I finally come dragging up to the top and there they all are having snackage.  It is a group of 14 riders heading for the east coast.  But they are traveling light and




letting this "sag wagon" do all the work.  Cece and the C's are there too and we are invited by the group to spend the night at their next overnight stop in Lewiston, Idaho at the Presbyterian Church.  They have their itinerary all mapped out and are staying in churches and monasteries across the country.




Back to the road and I see this unfortunate critter.  No rattles.




I stop to check out the older highway bridge.  It is blocked off at both ends and is now a historic relic.






There is some signage affixed to the bridge.




And this nod to bike touring!




Strange geology exposed by this road cut.  It looks like vertical granite pillars but is probably lava.




My excitement is obvious as I follow some of today's riders over the bridge into Idaho.




Yippie Skippy!  A new state!!




Cece had given me her cell number so I gave her a call to find out where they were.  I should have known!!  A burger and beer joint!  I soon arrive and join them.  We have a great lunch and pitchers of local micro bears and then head off to the Presbyterian Church.  There is a tough uphill before we get to the church and drinking beer before the ride didn't help any but soon we find the church and settle in.




The church is a big facility which takes up almost a city block.  There is the main church and classrooms and meeting hall with attached kitchen and bathrooms.  There is a house with kitchen and bedrooms and bathrooms and utility room with washer and dryer.  It is all ours to use.  The 14 LV's riders settle into the house while Cece and the Cs and I take over the meeting hall and kitchen.




What do touring bicyclists do beside ride bikes?  They eat!!  Here we are enjoying our evening repast which Cece and the guys whipped up; lentil, carrot, celery soup and black bean burritos with cheese!


Cece and the guys spread out their sleeping bags in the meeting hall while I elected to put my tent in the back yard to keep an eye on the bicycles that were parked out there overnight.


Since it was such a warm evening I didn't bother to put on the rain fly but did drape it over part of the tent to block out the back yard sodium vapor security light which was shining in my eyes.  I settled into my too hot down sleeping bag and called it a night.


3:00 AM.  Downpour!!  It is raining cats and dogs!!  No thunder and lightening warning, just instant downpour!  I scramble to find the zipper to get out of the tent and hastily lunge out to try and spread my rainfly over the rest of the tent before my down bag and everything else is soaked!  I get the rain fly in place and crawl back into my soggy, cold, heavy sleeping bag.  Shit!  If I don't move I sort of heat up a damp area.  Suddenly the rain stops and I fall back asleep.

June 24th. Day 36.


First daylight I wake to blue skies and birds singing.  My half hour downpour turned out to be the sprinkler system!!  Unbelievable!!


I should have know there was a reason for this nice green lawn.


The sprinkler heads are the hidden "pop up" kind.  Fortunately the house has a washer and dryer.  I stuff my wet sleeping bag and clothes into it.  By the time Cece, the Cs and I have finished breakfast my stuff is dry.  I pack and hit the road while Cece and the guys are still busy packing.




It is beginning to look like my ride along the Lewis and Clark trail has really begun.  Lots of historical stuff.


Soon, along come Cece and the guys, they wave, say they might see me in Orifino and leave me in the dust.  I really would like to see them again, they are so much fun, but their riding speed and mine do not match and I have to let them go.



There are a lot of highway historical signs along the way which make a good place to pull over, read the sign and catch my breath. (embiggen to read,)




Just to the right of this sign you can see the stone arch that the story is about, the Ant and the Yellowjacket locked in mortal embrace.





All the spring rain has caused the Clearwater River to over run its various small islands.




Oops, another sign.  Time for another break.




And here is the bridge over the Clearwater to Lenore.


Riding along towards Orifino I notice what looks like a cell phone or PDA case laying in the bike lane alongside the highway.  I ride past it, think about it and decide to stop and pedal back to check it out.  I ride up to it, pick it up and yes indeed it is a leather case with something in it.  I toss it into my handlebar pannier and ride on.  It has been a forty mile day and I have had about enough.


Bingo, a campground alongside the Clearwater River appears.  Perfect.


I pedal into the campground and check out the kiosk.  $5.00 Hiker/Biker camping!  Perfect!


I ride the loop looking for my spot, something close to the river and in the shade.  I find it, park my bike using the Click-stand and sit on the picnic table to cool off.  Oh yeah, almost forgot.  What is in the PDA case.  I get the leather container, open it and discover a Canon Point and Shoot camera!  It looks fairly new.  I wonder if it still works after being dropped on the road.  I turn it on, the lens extends and the screen lights up.  It is almost exactly like my Canon.  Great.  Nice to have a back up camera.


I push the button to see if there are any photos already on the camera and who should show up but Cece and the Cs!!  The first photo is of them in the rec-room at the Presbyterian Church!!  It is Cece's camera!!  What are the odds of me finding a camera and knowing who it belongs to!!



What to do.  What to do.  They had said they might see me in Orifino but it is still pretty early in the afternoon.  They probably passed right through Orifino with out stopping where-as I am pretty much done and just want to pitch camp and call it a day.


I do have Cece's phone number, decide to give her a call but discover there is no cell coverage.  Hmmm.


Well, I guess the right thing to do is to ride on.  Pedal on into Orifino and see if I can find them.


Back onto the road I go, back into the afternoon heat.


Entering the outskirts of Orifino I hear someone holler, "Hey Ronnie!"


By golly it is Cece waving!  I ride over to her and discover they had stopped at the Orifino Park to take a nap during the heat of the day.  Now she is looking for her camera which she thinks must have bounced out of her handlebar pannier when they rode across the park grass to the shade tree.


I smile, reach into my handlebar and say, "Ta-da!!"




Unbelievable!!  We are knocked out by the bicycle "karma" we have just experienced!!


Hugs all around.  "Farewells", "Safe travels", and I pedal back to my campground while they press on.



( I never saw Cece and the guys again but I checked out their website when I got home.  They did arrive in New York in plenty of time for the 11/11 Anniversary.)

June 25th. Day 37.

 Up and at 'em.  Had an interesting talk with a guy in a huge motorhome.  He and his wife are full-timing and trying to decide if they want to sell their home in Denver and Really full time.  He admired my minimalism.



Quite an impressive dam.  The Dworshak Dam.




It must be the weekend, the Harley riders are out in force.




This sign was interesting.




It seems to be the target for bottles and cans!!  Maybe that is a good idea, sort of like the fly decal in men's urinals, something to aim at.




Serious Lewis and Clark signage all through this area.




The Clearwater river route via HWY 12 is turning out to be a very nice ride.












29.4 mile day.  A short day.  I'm a bit anxious because I don't see any campgrounds in the near future on my maps.  But, right here is an RV type of campground called, what else, "The Lewis and Clark Resort and Motel".  The tent sites are a bit pricey but they have "free" showers and laundry.  There is a big wedding party going on with lots of participants staying in the motel and in motor-homes and trailers so I choose a campsite as far as possible away from the revelers.

Since it is mid afternoon I go for a walk and check out the restroom, shower and laundry room.  Good enough.  I take a shower and wash some clothes.  Walking further afield I check out the restaurant and discover they have Prime Rib!!  

Let's see..., heat up some Dinty Moore Beef Stew on my stove or treat myself to dinner?

I ordered the Prime Rib which comes with baked potato, green beans and, "Help yourself to the salad bar.  Anything to drink?".

"How about a Long Neck Bud!"

Perfect!  The Prime Rib is a nice sized piece of meat, the potato is quite hefty too but I consume every bit.  I almost lick the plate!  Bike riding is hungry business!

Back to my campsite past a pond of ducks and frogs.  Although I am camped at the far end away from everybody there are a surprising amount of cars driving by kicking up dust from the one lane dirt road.  They drive past looking at me, go around the bend and up the hill behind me!  I finally stop one car and ask the old couple, "What is going on?".  Come to find out there is a RV retirement park up the hill behind me and this little road is the only access!!  Fortunately, we retirees call it a night quite early and, except for the bull frogs in the pond, it soon settled down into a peaceful night.  

Perfect sleeping weather.

June 26th. Day 38.




Leaving the Lewis and Clark Resort and Motel.  I think that is Lewis's arm right above my head!






One of the first churches to help subdue the Indians.






Christian influence on a roadside marker.




And butterflies!  It is amazing how many butterflies lie dead or injured along this highway.






An interesting Christmas candle slid over a roadside post.






One of the reasons I cut my ride short yesterday.  I wasn't sure what the camping situation would be on the reservation.




The nice weather allows me to put out my Goal Zero to charge my cell phone and Zune.  Unfortunately I discover there isn't any AT&T coverage all the way across Idaho.  I didn't know that when I last called Lolli from Lewiston, Idaho and told her I would give her a call in another two days.




Riding along I happened upon this guy who was just putting this fish he caught into his ice chest.  I talked him into bringing it back out so I could photograph it!


Whoa Ho!!  Wild Goose Camp Ground!  27 miles on the clock so I might as well call it a day,




A very nice little campground right beside the Clearwater.  No showers but there is running water and toilets and, they accept my Golden Age Passport!!  Perfect!




 Picnic table, tent close to the river for that wonderful white noise




 even a set of concrete steps down to a platform in the river!  I soak my "engine".

June 27th. Day 39.


Oh what a great wake up!!  The view from my sleeping bag through the mosquito netting!


I got to talking to another camper.  He and his family have been coming to this campground for years.  He loves it here and I must say, it ain't bad.  He has some bottles of "Muscle Milk" and offers me one.  I have never tried this protein drink before but put it in my pannier for lunch.  Nice guy.




On the road again and happen upon this sign at the convergence of the Selway and the Lochsa Rivers.  According to the sign I could have been hundreds of feet underwater if the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act had not been passed by Congress.




On up river I go.  A perfect day for riding.




Whoot!  Whoot!  Only 75 miles to Lolo Pass.  I have been stressing about this pass for quite a while but try to keep in mind Leggett Hill and how it ultimately wasn't that big a deal,  Hopefully this won't be either, so far, so good!  Just a gradual elevation gain, mile after mile alongside the river.




I happen upon this hiking bridge across the river that goes to a hot spring.




 On the railing I see this.  Evidently someone was getting anxious for a dip!





I walk my bike out to the middle of the bridge for a photo shoot.




Looking up river.

In the foreground, my home and transportation!  All in one small package!



Beside the trail to the hot springs is this sign..., NO NO NO NO NO!  Of course, if I was sitting in a hot tub I wouldn't want a bunch of traffic either.  The hot springs are farther than I want to walk and I don't want to leave my bike unattended.  Maybe some other time.




On up the road I come upon a nice waterfall, park my bike, set up my camera on the mini-pod and, since there is no traffic, set it for 30 second delay, walk across the highway and pose by my bike.  Of course, here comes the only car I have seen in half an hour!!  How do they know?!




Try again.  There, that's better!


Further up the road I notice river rafters coming down the river and stop to watch.




They are getting their money's worth!




Evidently the Clearwater is a popular watercraft playground.




Ah, another cross country traveler.  It is always nice to stop and talk, do the where you from, where you going and have them sign my vest.




Next point of interest, the "Lochsa Historical Ranger Station.  I park my bike and go for a walk around the grounds.  There are docents to answer questions but I am free to just walk and gawk at my own pace.








I remember my Aunt Marie had one of these in Gowrie, Iowa when I was a wee shaver.





An assortment of old stuff including dynamite "plungers".



The office.  The china plate and cup have the Forest Service insignia!  Those were the days!!  All in all a nicely preserved part of the past.


Back to the road and onward.


28 miles and a campground named ?????




This is a very spread out campground and it takes me a while to find the hiker/biker area.  I'm searching just as a fellow cyclist arrives, Diana Cure.  She is from Portland and also heading east.  We ride together looking for the hiker/biker section and after crossing another bridge find the area.  She selects a more secluded spot away from the river noise but I like to be close to the white noise and pick this spot with two, count them, two picnic tables!  One for cooking and one for airing clothes and sleeping bag.





Almost immediately the local camp robber shows up ready to see what I have.  After my wildlife initiation in Oregon, this guy is out of luck.  I'm wise to his ways.





Home sweet home.  Sunshine, a flowing river, a place to sit down and relax.




Tea brewed and the table set for dinner.




I suddenly notice just how much that little store back in ???? charged me for one mini box of raisins!  What a rip!


Diana walks over for a visit after she got her tent up and camp established.  We talk for a while and I discover she has just graduated from college in Portland, Oregon and is now is a certified large animal veterinarian!  She sold her car, TV and furniture, and got rid of her apartment.  Her whole life is now reduced to just what is on her bicycle.  She is ultimately heading to some friends in Georgia but meanwhile checking out the small towns along the way and thinking about where she would eventually like to live and work.  Nice!


More power to her!

June 28th. Day 40.


In the morning I talk to the two guys who rolled into their campsite on expensive BMW motorcycles.  They are heading to Alaska!  Nice guys, beautiful bikes.  After the morning sun has dried my tent I pack up and hit the road.  Diana Cure is long gone.




Whitehouse pond.  The first pond I have seen. 




Starting to get into some hills.



I keep having west bound travelers holler at me and say, "Hey!  Are you Ronnie?  I heard all about you, your famous!"  Then they want to take my picture!!


Evidently Cece and the Cs have been spreading the word about some old fart heading east on a Long Haul Trucker!!









Oh boy!  Snow up there!



I check out this roadside campground and see they have a pitcher pump.  I have never seen one with this arraingement on the pump head.  I think it is to help it self prime.  I give it a try and it works.  I refill my water bottles.





I wonder if that is my road up there.



Lochsa Lodge service station.  Check out the gas prices!  I buy a few groceries at the market and then coast down to the campground.




40.5 miles.  Powell Campground right below Lochsa Lodge.  I end up sharing this campsite with Gary, a fellow traveler and we decide to walk up to the lodge for dinner.  We have Lasagna, green salad and  beer, I'm building up my strength for tomorrows assault on Lolo pass.  It is only 12.9 mile up the road!

June 29th. Day 40.

 Up and breakfast and on the road again.  The final push for Lolo Pass.  Only 12.9 miles to the top!


Spotted this buck and was able to stop and get my camera out in time before he disappeared.



Goodby Clearwater River.  It has been a lovely ride alongside you.










 Starting to work up a sweat!  The up is getting seriously up!  I have settled into the 100 feet of elevation gain and take a break, ride until there is another 100 feet of elevation gain and take a break.  But now I am stopping for a break after every 50 feet of elevation gain.  Whew!


I come up on a three-some of bike riders, two men and a woman.  They are also heading east but they had stopped to soak their neckerchiefs in a small stream.  They show me their neckerchiefs and say it is like turning on an air conditioner.  Their neckerchiefs have some absorbent material in them that sucks up water and keep the neckerchief around your neck nice and cool and since blood is pumping right past the cool damp neckerchief via the carotid arteries, it helps cool you off.  I have decided I definitely need one.


We press on and they slowly leave me behind.  Gary, the guy I shared last nights campsite with is behind me and according to these people, having a hard time of it.  His bike was really overloaded.




I'm now getting high enough to start seeing patches of snow!




And then..., Lolo Summit!  I did it!!



 How about that, Lewis and Clark ran into rain with hail and thunder June 29th, 1806.  I'm here 204 years later, on the same date, and the weather is the same!!



Mammatus clouds and a wind, rain and hail squall greets me and quickly passes!


Lolo Pass is also the dividing line between Idaho and Montana.




Rolling down the other side into strange weather of rain and sun.





 Along the way I meet these guys from Italy heading up towards Lolo pass.  They have crossed the country from New York and are heading for the Pacific.  Wild and crazy guys!



Ah!  What's this?






The first midwestern style water tower I have seen on this trip.  I reminds me very much of the one that was in North Bend, Nebraska, where I grew up.


On my map is a symbol for a campground called Traveler's Rest.  Sounds good and when I get to it I find it to be back a ways from the highway on a recently graveled road.  I gingerly pedal the distance and can not find any campground.  There is a building and inside are some volunteers.  I ask how much to camp.


"Oh, there is no camping here.  This is the historic site where Lewis and Clark "rested" after they got over Lolo Pass."  It was good enough for them but not for me.  Beans.


Back to the highway.


I roll into the town of Lolo, MT which is basically a very busy intersection of HWY 12 entering Interstate 93.  I have not experienced this much traffic in days!  Everybody zooming this way and that.


I'm pretty much ready for a campground but with all the development around it doesn't look good.


I stop at a post office and wait in line to talk to the post mistress; I wan't to ask if there is a place to camp around here but the line is long and slow.  Finally I get to ask my question and of course, the answer is no.  But the lady behind me in line overhears my request and when she leaves the post office she sees me by my bike and says she will call her husband and see if he knows of any place around here.  I'm hoping she will offer her back yard but then, I have no idea how far out of town they live.  She talks to her husband but he has no suggestions.  Nothing for it but to press on for Missoula.


Onto Interstate 93 and the going home commute in light rain.  Crap!


Riding along I keep an eye out for some place to stealth camp but the closer I get to Missoula the less likely the odds.


And then I am riding past strip malls and fast food joints. Heavy traffic.  I spot a small casino and decide to go in and ask.


Inside the dim smoky interior there are people sitting at one armed bandits and further towards the back a ground of people sitting around a card table.  I see the manager sitting in her office.


I ask her if there is anyplace to camp around here and she tells me the KOA is about it.  I ask where it is located and she says it is way across town, about five miles away!!  Awe man.  I'm really not up for five more miles in the traffic and rain.  She says, wait a minute and goes to the card table and asks the folks there if anyone is heading towards the KOA.  Nope.


I start to leave and she says, "Wait a minute, I'll ask Mark.  He should be here in a minute.


Mark arrives and she asks him if he would drive me to the KOA.  I offer him five dollars.


Sure!  Out the door we go to his old Ford pickup with a camper shell on the back.  He opens the rear and it is full of junk!  Old car parts and empty oil cans and pieces of rugs, boxes, etc.  He says' "No problem" and pushes a bunch of stuff aside and stuff my bike in and ontop of the junk!!


"Hop in!".


I go around to the passenger door and he says, "Wait a minute", and scrapes fast food containers and books and DVDs off onto the floor or tosses them behind the seat so I have room and, after a worrisome grind, grind, grind the engine finally starts and we are off.


He tells me all about his head injury and his divorce and his lost dog and his trouble with the cops but says he knows a way around the commuters and up side streets and alleyways we go.  I have no idea where we are going and have to trust this wild man and the casino woman.


Sure enough, after about a twenty minute ride we arrive in a very strangely laid out KOA like nothing I have ever seen before.  It seems to be located in a residential area behind some large buildings and there is a line of huge motor-homes waiting to check in.  Mark pulls around them and drives me right up to the front, right in front of a monster motor-home.  I feel rather guilty dragging my loaded bicycle out of the back of the truck with Mr. and Mrs. and the obligatory little white dog looking down on me through their huge front windshield but I soon scurry out of their way and after slipping Mark five bucks, he roars off leaving behind a cloud of blue smoke!


Check in!


What a mad house!  There are four check-in people dressed in yellow smocks awith people standing in line to check-in.  What a land office business they got going here!!  I finally I get my turn, tell the lady I would like a tent site and bingo, $22.00 later she is drawing the route to my tent site on a hand out map.  "The showers are here, and this is the number for the combination door lock.  Check out tomorrow at 11:00."


I pedal off following my map to J-22.





Home sweet home!!  E-gad!

June 30th. Day 41.

 I've decide to take a day off.  I return to the KOA office to pay for another day and discovered the price had increased two bucks!  "It's the weekend".

I said, "Hey, it is only Thursday".

"Yeah, we count Thursday as part of the weekend."

Back to my campsite.

I get to talking to a guy who is tent camping.  Turns out he is waiting for his friends to arrive so they can ride the Continental Divide Trail.  I ask him if there is a REI around here.  He points to the big building backed up against the KOA.  "That's it!"

I decide to pedal over to REI to see if they have one of those "air conditioned" neckerchiefs.  They do!   I find a nice blue one.  They also have silk sleeping bag liners.  I'm thinking that just might be the ticket for hot weather sleeping.

Next, according to my GPS, there are several bike shops in downtown Missoula.  Since I now have over 2,000 miles on these tires that came with the Surley and I'm thinking my bike needs some love.

I visit several bike shops before I finally find one that has some "road'" tires.  What they have are Michelin "City" tires but the bike shop clerk says the locals use them what with all the broken glass and debris around town and they like them .  I have never heard of them but then, what do I know, I just started biking six months ago.  I decide to buy them.


While waiting I lLook around the shop and notice a Surley Pugsley on display.  Never seen one of those either.



The bike mechanic installs my new tires; total bill $50.00.  I'm thinking, "oh oh, too cheap" but, oh well, then set off looking for "mecca", the former church housing Adventure Cycling Association.


Bingo!  Here it is.


Inside are photos of earlier travelers!  (and to think I have it tough!)

One of the guys working there shows me around the facility, points out the soft drink cooler, the freezer containing Ice Cream Bars, the computer and says..., "Help yourself".

He takes my photo to add to the collection on the wall of folks passing through.


Confidence is quite high, I write I am traveling from Fort Bragg to Mechanicsburg, PA.


I buy an Adventure Cycling Association jersey.  I notice they have in stock the tires I really wanted but I didn't know they sold tires here.  Duh!  Oh well, next time.

While I'm looking around the three folks I met on the other side of Lolo Pass arrive.  It is good to see them again.  They tell me they stayed with some "Warm Showers" folks they found on the internet.  That would have been a lot cheaper than KOA and more interesting!!

I really should have done some research when I entered Missoula yesterday or headed directly for Adventure Cycling Association to get ideas on where to camp but I was so "fried" by the time I entered the "Big City" I was scared of the weather and all the going home traffic.  I was grasping at straws and not thinking clearly.

Pedaling back to the KOA I see a barber shop so stop and get everything trimmed down to half an inch. 

Arriving at the KOA I realize I left my Click-Stand behind at the barber shop.  A quick eight mile round trip and once again I have my Click Stand!!  This is the second time I have tried to give it away!


Wearing my new ACA jersey in the KOA restroom.  Pretty slim and dapper!

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