July 1st. Day 42.
Riding out of Missoula I notice this lawn sprinkler. I remember one of these when I was a kid. I always thought they were ingenious with how the sprinkler is steered by the front wheel following the hose.
Meet these two ladies from New Zeland. They have crossed the country; starting on the east coast and are heading for Portland!
I happen upon Bonner, Montana, a former logging town. All the houses use to be company housing. Now the lumbering days are over, or greatly reduced, and these homes are for sale. Nice old homes on a tree lined street....,
right across from the mill.
This is the first time I need to start watching for Bighorn Sheep. I really hope to see one.
Interesting geological feature exposed by the road cut. I feel the need for a photograph of me pointing to it!
Up and down, up and down...., Really long ups and downs.
After reading this I now know how to tell the difference between a Black Bear and a Grizzly Bear. I hope I don't see either one!
It is getting to be a long day. I am checking small side roads hoping for a stealth camp but everything is fenced and gated. Onward.
And then..., a sign pointing off the highway to Ovando, Montana. It looks to be a ways off the highway on a downhill road and I wonder if I want to invest the energy to rattle down there and possibly have to ride back up but, what the heck.
Down the hill, around the bend, and up the grade when someone starts hollering, "Ronnie!!"
It is the threesome from Lolo Pass sitting on the porch of the Stray Bullet sucking up a pitcher of beer! I pull up next to a Harley and join in.
Strange damn place, some guy, a friend of the woman owner, keeps bringing out fresh pitchers of beer every time our starts show the bottom and won't take our money!!
Cold beer is a perfect antidote to the end of a hot long day and the conversation is great but soon I'm thinking I better get some food in me or I'm going to fall off my perch!
We ask it it is possible to order dinner and are told that the place is closed but they can make us some sandwiches.
Sandwiches, more beer, and more chips. We are finally "about there!". It is 5:00 in the evening but it sure doesn't look like it with these long days.
The lady bar owner tells us to pitch camp anywhere. I try the far side of the post office where there is some green grass and shade but as soon as I walk into that area mosquitoes swarm! I end up camped right against the building in the shade. Fewer mosquitoes.
A fifty-five mile day and too much beer. What a day. Burp!!
July 2nd. Day 43.
Up in the morning. I drag my tent over into the sunshine to dry off. The metal roof of the Post Office started dripping condensation on my tent in the early morning! I have my down bag draped over my bike to air out; sleeping in a down bag on a warm night after too much beer is sweaty business.
The scene of the crime!! We all stagger in for coffee, tea, and breakfast!
I discover we have a new addition to our group. This guy came rolling in late in the evening. He joined us for breakfast and we heard his story.
He had always wanted to do a bicycling trip so saved some money, got the okay from his wife and kids, quit his job and set out from Lincoln, Nebraska for the west coast. Through Wyoming he pushed too hard and tore his Achilles tendon! He took time off to heal and was fitted with a boot to support his foot . He ordered a small, one cylinder, gas engine to help power him up the steeper hills and resumed his journey. He has an unusual third wheel trailer; a wheel the same size as the others on his bike that has racks for two additional panniers. Pretty cool set up.
I wish I had written down his name and website if he had one.
The three some is still packing up when I hit the road.
We gather for a parting shot and I never saw them again.
Entering the outskirts of Lincoln, Montana. Turns out there is a pre-Fourth of July Rodeo happening. I see a lot of folks heading for it using various rigs and 4X4's.
Close to town I spotted this intricately carved sign. The statues are carved from individual logs.
I stopped in Lincoln for cold chocolate milk, a banana and vanilla yogurt then sat in the shade and watched the after parade crowd go by.
Heading out of Lincoln I notice an airplane model sitting in someone's yard! I turn around and ride back for another look. I see some guy standing at his barbecue grill up by the house. I ride up the driveway to ask about the plane. The guy looked up from his grilling. I tell him I really like his airplane. He said, "My dad made it", opens the screen door, hollers inside, "Dad!" and out comes this fine gentleman. I tell him about my interest planes and a bit about me being a former model maker for Boeing and Northrop and currently a Radio Controlled model airplane guy.
He invites me for a closer look, we walk and shows me his plane. He said he made it for his grand kids to operate during parades. He used an aircraft fuel drop tank for the body and a beer keg fir the engine cowl! He hand carved the prop and the wings are covered in fabric. It is powered with a single cylinder Briggs and Stratton! Very nicely done.
He invited me to stay for Forth of July Barbecue with him and his family!! Well, shucks. Why not!!
What a great bunch of folks. I get them interested in performing a "Silly Shot"!
And then, back to road. Along the way I passed this sign.
6:00 PM. I finally make it to the top of Roger's Pass! Nothing but downhill from here!!
Downhill, downhill, downhill. A nice long downhill ride but the day is getting long in the tooth and I need a place to camp.
I check out several small, un-gated, side roads but they all head up and up and up into the hills. I can't find a level enough spot for my tent.
Onward.
Most of the way is fenced and gated. It is not looking good and then...,
I notice a small clump of trees between the barbed wire fence and the highway with just enough room and somewhat level ground to pitch my tent out of sight of passing traffic. Not the best but, it'll do.
A fifty two mile day. I discover I have weird sun burnt spots on the top of my head where that everlasting noon day sun has shown through the ventilation holes of my bike helmet!! You can't see them in this photo but I can sure feel them! Fortunately, I found a small American flag laying beside the road left over from the Fourth of July hoop-la. I will use it as a helmet liner tomorrow.
July 3rd. Day 44.
Up in the morning and back to it. Down, down, out of the mountains. Away from trees and into the sun!
It is getting pretty sparse around here and warming up quite quickly.
The mountains are becoming a thing of the past.
The bicycle maps suggests I leave HWY 200 and take HWY 287 north to Augusta and then east and south to Simms, MT. I don't know why but I figure they know better than I.
I am getting low on water but notice there is reference to a grocery, on my map, at the intersection of 200 and 287.
After 37 miles I arrive and see the bar and grocery but it appears it is closed even though there are some cars parked by the building and a dog barking at me. There is a rope across the entry way. It looks like folks are just living there now. I'm of a mixed mind as to whether they would be open to my request for water. I defeat myself by thinking they are probably bothered all the time by that request and decide to press on.
No trees of any size. I guess they have to laminate them!!
Very little traffic. Very little anything except me and the vastness!
The mountain recede slowly but recede they do.
I finally arrive in Augusta which is a wild west looking kind of town. There is a hamburger joint with shade over some picnic tables. Perfect. Lunch!!
I sit there enjoying my burger, fries and chocolate malt, wearing my bike garb while "working" people come and go in their "working" garb, big hats and big bellies. A guy walks by wearing a t-shirt that says;
ATF
ALCOHOL TOBACCO FIREARMS
WHO'S BRINGING SNACKS?
Back to the road and away from the wonderful shade of the hamburger canopy.
It is getting quite warm and I finally spot some shade trees up ahead on the other side of the ditch. When I get there I park the bike and wade down through the tall grass over to the shade of the trees. As soon as I reach the shade swarms of mosquitoes rise up and engulf me! Gack! Nothing for it but to return to the heat of the highway.
The afternoon sun is getting unbearable and the wind has really picked up. Wide open spaces. I finally see an agriculture building of some sort and some semi trailers parked beside them in the gravel lot. I ride over to them and craw under one into the shade. The hot wind is blowing dirt and gravel over me and into my ears and eyes but I'm out of the sun. Shade is the important thing. I lay there reading my novel hoping the wind will start to abate. I lay there under the trailer from 1:00 until 2:45 PM! The temperature hasn't dropped a bit but the wind has changed to a more favorable tail wind. Nothing for it but to crawl out from under the trailer and press on.
Twelve more miles and I eventually rejoined HWY 200 and then arrive at the town of Simms, MT. There is a truck stop at the north-east corner of town. I enter the air conditioned splendor and buy my cold chocolate milk and then ask about a possible place to camp. She tells me I can put up my tent in their RV park and points out the window. I see several picnic tables but no place to get out of the sun and afternoon wind. She then mentions the city park over by the High School. She gives me directions and off I go.
Arriving at the park I see some memorial benches, one with a child's bear left behind but most importantly, there is shade! Cottonwood fluff is blowing around in the warm afternoon breeze. I lay my air mattress on a picnic table in the shade and take a snooze. It has been a fifty three mile day of nothing but sunshine and wind.
In the evening I walk back to the Fireside Inn and order the chopped sirloin, baked potato, canned beans and salad washed down with a Long Neck Bud. Burp! The air conditioning is wonderful!
Walking back to my camp on a diagonal road. It isn't until I take a look at Google Maps I realize what an interesting and strangely laid out town this is. The High School is the center of the town. Everything else is arranged around it half a mile to a side!
4th of July. Day 45.
Up in the morning after a peaceful night of sleep. The wind died down. I have my tent over in the sun drying out from condensation.
The Simms High School stadium is interesting, the Home team bleachers are four times wider than the Visitor bleachers but then, I guess that makes sense.
Again back to it. I am slowly leaving the land of mesas and entering prairie.
Any stop in the shade is welcome.
Getting close to Great Falls. The name says it all!
It is amazing how many prairie dogs I ride by that have been hit by cars. In a ten mile stretch of the I-15 frontage road I must have counted one hundred!
The signage is getting goofy the closer I get to Great Falls.
I finally arrive in Great Falls and stop in the shade at the city park. Big city. No idea of what is what.
I check my Android for campgrounds. There is a KOA. I call them and ask them how much for a tent site. "$42.00." What? You got to be kidding! "Nope, it is the 4th of July."
I call the local Youth Hostle. No answer.
I call something called Dick's RV. They have tent sites for only ONLY $16.00! I'll take it!
She gives me directions and off I go.
Along busy streets and over the overpass she mentioned, l arrive at the intersection she said Dick's RV is located by. There is a lot of traffic. I'm not watching where I'm riding near as much as I am looking for Dicks and wham! I ride right over a broken bottle and my front tire is immediately flat! Damn. My new Michelin City tire! I then notice the RV park is right on the other side of a chain link fence but, which way to the entrance? There is a guy mowing the grass in there and I wave at him. He shuts down and I ask him how I get into the place. He tells me there is a pedestrian entrance around to my right. I walk the bike around to the right and sure enough. Through the gate and past huge parked motor homes and trailers to the Office. I check in and am given a map of where to go. Also shown where the restrooms and laundry is located. Good enough.
I repair my first flat of the trip. In fact, this is the first flat I have had since I was probably 12 years old!! The tire has a half inch cut across it. I install a new tube and pump it up with my wimpy travel pump. Good enough for now. Set up the tent. Blow up my air mattress, chill out on a hot afternoon. Great Falls Montana. Who'ed a thunk it.
And then, the Forth of July kicked in!!! A friggin uproar until two in the morning!! It was like Dick's RV was in the middle of the battle field! I caught this one burst from among thousands of "BIG STUFF"!
All this for only $16.00 bucks!
July 5th. Day 46.
Mostly packed and enjoying my cup of tea, the ground cloth flipped over and drying.
Downtown Great Falls
I find a bike shop and they have Specialized Armadillo Tires. Kevlar lined. Bullet Proof!!
I decide to buy them even though my rear Michelin tire is almost brand new. Confidence. I'm looking for and trying to build confidence!
Leaving the city on a very busy highway I happen upon this sign. It gets me thinking and I realize I am heading West. Not East. Oops! Nothing for it but to turn around and face all that congestion once again.
Somewhere along the way I pass the Malstrom Airforce Base entrance and then the traffic really thins out. This country is getting flat as a fart.
Yep, flat as a fart!
Well, except for a few rollers. I stop and take this photo from the center line of HWY 3, HWY 87, HWY 89 and HWY 200 all rolled into one! Not a lot of traffic!
As the day wears on I start to wonder where I will lay my head tonight. No campgrounds show on my map but then, the only map I have is of Montana. The Adventure Cycling Map I was following ended at Great Falls! I didn't realize there was a "Part 2" Adventure Cycling Map of Montana but it stands to reason, Montana being so wide!
Then I see a road sign, "Belt, Montana" to the left, 1/2 mile.
I take the turn off and the road enters a canyon and starts steeply down. And down to..., what I see ahead looks like a river valley! I'm not sure I wan't to ride all the way down there only to have to push my bike back up in the morning but oh well, I'm committed now. Down I go!
Belt, Montana!
Not only is it a nice little town with a town park were I am free to camp, they also have a nice market and a saloon with burgers, onion rings and Long Neck Bud!!
The bar counter-top is covered with pennies laminated in polyester resin.
And like so many of these small towns they have war memorials and they show a very disproportionate amount of loss for the size of the town. This one caught my eye, Louis Blomquist.
The campground is perfect for my needs.
These malformed trees creak in the wind all night long.
Across the way is a grain silo beside a rail line. I'm told Belt was known for the coal it produced back in the early days of railroading.
July 6th. Day 47
I have a wonderful night in the town park. Good sleeping and I discover, talking to the guy at the market, there is a way out of Belt that doesn't involve pushing my bike up that steep road to the highway!
"All you have to do is follow the old road, out along the river, and it will eventually rejoin the highway."
Perfect!
Along the way I observed American ingenuity at work. "Honey, the roof leaks."
"There! Fixed!"
Back onto HWY 200 heading east. The "rumple" strip, so hated by bicyclists, is prevalent in eastern Montana. I am forced to either ride in the driving lane or over on the very narrow, debris strewn, strip by the grass. Fortunately cars and trucks are few in number but when one shows up invariably another one will be coming from behind and we all arrive at the same spot at the same instant three abreast!! It is remarkable how often this happens every hour or so.
Fast building cumulus clouds. Ah yes, Montana. Big Sky Country.
I am quite amused by this sign. You couldn't ask for a more vacant area!
I stop at the Geyser, MT Post Office at lunch time. The place is closed for lunch so I laid down in the shade. Man o man is it getting hot. I have decided to lighten my load by mailing my Tilly Hat, the water filter pump and the California, Oregon, Washington and Idaho maps back home.
Today has been a tough push up over the Judith Mountain Range. Nothing steep, just long, long up grades and long, long down hills against a headwind.
I realize I am starting to loose it! I find myself talking to cows. They look up and listen to me as I ride by. I tell them they better not eat so much, it could threaten their longevity. Also, for some reason, I start hollering at them..., "99 cents? Only 99 cents! Let's buy it!!" Over and over, the cows watching me.
Hot, hot, hot! I have been using gobs of sunscreen, soaking my neckerchief every chance I get, I have the flag I found on my head under the helmet to keep from sunburning my head even more. I'm getting cooked!
And then........, can you believe this? A pool! A, by god, swimming pool in the wee town of Stanford!
In no time I pay the fee and fall into the empty pool sizzling until I cool off. Heaven. Absolute Heaven!
And! Just across the way I can set up my tent in the shade of a hedge and stuff spread out to air. YES! It was a tough forty mile day but all is now forgiven. Whew!
"All you have to do is follow the old road, out along the river, and it will eventually rejoin the highway."
Perfect!
Along the way I observed American ingenuity at work. "Honey, the roof leaks."
"There! Fixed!"
Back onto HWY 200 heading east. The "rumple" strip, so hated by bicyclists, is prevalent in eastern Montana. I am forced to either ride in the driving lane or over on the very narrow, debris strewn, strip by the grass. Fortunately cars and trucks are few in number but when one shows up invariably another one will be coming from behind and we all arrive at the same spot at the same instant three abreast!! It is remarkable how often this happens every hour or so.
Fast building cumulus clouds. Ah yes, Montana. Big Sky Country.
I am quite amused by this sign. You couldn't ask for a more vacant area!
I stop at the Geyser, MT Post Office at lunch time. The place is closed for lunch so I laid down in the shade. Man o man is it getting hot. I have decided to lighten my load by mailing my Tilly Hat, the water filter pump and the California, Oregon, Washington and Idaho maps back home.
Today has been a tough push up over the Judith Mountain Range. Nothing steep, just long, long up grades and long, long down hills against a headwind.
I realize I am starting to loose it! I find myself talking to cows. They look up and listen to me as I ride by. I tell them they better not eat so much, it could threaten their longevity. Also, for some reason, I start hollering at them..., "99 cents? Only 99 cents! Let's buy it!!" Over and over, the cows watching me.
Hot, hot, hot! I have been using gobs of sunscreen, soaking my neckerchief every chance I get, I have the flag I found on my head under the helmet to keep from sunburning my head even more. I'm getting cooked!
And! Just across the way I can set up my tent in the shade of a hedge and stuff spread out to air. YES! It was a tough forty mile day but all is now forgiven. Whew!
July 7th. Day 48.
6:30 AM. Up and at 'em. Looking back at Stanford. A long up hill grind heading east. At 8:45 I find two pennies. The first "wages" I have made since I left on this adventure.
And then a garter snake.
I'm not familiar with the weather of eastern Montana but what I see forming looks ominous.
Interesting though.
I've heard of Burning Man but Blue Man?
They roll 'em big here in Eastern Montana!
Moccasin, Montana. Hardly any town but a huge school. Closed and abandoned, broken windows and decay. I stopped and talked with a guy mowing his lawn, He told me originally there were one room schools in the various towns scattered around this vast country but then they were forced to consolidate and schools like Moccasin's were build and kids bused in for miles. Now even these schools are closed and new, more modern, schools are built in towns like Lewistown and kids are bused even farther. And so it goes
One of the few occupied buildings in Moccasin. Evidently a former business that is now being used as a residence.
The town pump out by the highway. A few poppies in bloom.
Approaching time for lunch I happened upon Hobson set back a half mile from HWY 200. A strong cross wind but I pedaled into town and aimed for the Post Office to ask where I might find lunch. As I walked to the Post Office the UPS driver arrives. He is carrying some packages to the Post Office so I asked him if he knows of a place to get lunch around here. He said there is a market in town but he would recommend I continue on down the road another five miles to the new Amish Market. "You can't miss it and it is well worth it!"
Back to the Highway and onward under more threatening skies.
Finally, bingo! The new Amish Market and Deli! Most remarkable. Sandwiches built to order, cold chocolate milk, lots of small packages of snackage just perfect for bicyclists and cheap. Really cheap! 3 for $1.00 Power Bars!
I sit out on the porch in the handmade Amish furniture enjoying my lunch and talking to the owner. He tells me they are a family owned business. They just opened this year last April. His wife, sons and daughter help run the store and a girl cousin from back east is helping for the summer.
After lunch I park my ride by their ride for a photo opp!
Then, back to it!
Threatening skies. Fast building clouds with some thunder but they only amount to large drops of rain six inches apart, and then, pass on.
Summer returns to a long, hot slog.
Finally I near Lewistown, Montana. I see a business loop sign and take it to avoid the uphill to the overpass. I wind around and down and evidently enter Lewistown on the old highway. Narrow road and quite a bit of traffic, no bike lane, of course.
I see a small park and decided to take a break in the shade during the heat of the day; some kids messing around walking, kicking a soccer ball and texting. Teenagers. I'm thinking this might not be a good place to camp for the night and press on.
I come upon the City Park. A vast area with tennis courts, soccer court, picnic areas and so on. Near by I spot the Chamber of Commerce. I walk over, enter the airconditioned splendor and ask the nice lady is it is okay to spend the night in the park.
"No, I don't think that is allowed but let me check."
She gets on the phone and talks to someone. She tells him about this nice old guy riding his bike from California to Pennsylvania, he would like to camp in the park just tonight.
She hangs up and says that was the head of the Park District and he said it would be okay with him if it is okay with the cops.
"I'll check with the police."
She calls them and tells them the same story and gets an okay. I'm good to camp!
I tell her my brother-in-law told me that Lewiston is the geographic center of Montana.
She said, "Oh yes! In fact the exact center is the kitchen sink drain in the house where I met my husband! Of course that house is gone now. The property was bought by some church outfit."
I set up my tent as evening draws nigh. Soon a guy walks over and asks if I am going to camp here. I tell him I am planning to.
He says, "It is illegal to camp in the park."
I tell him I got permission from the lady at the Chamber of Commerce.
He says he works for city parks and it is illegal.
I tell him the lady got permission from the head of city parks.
He puffs up and says he's going to call the cops.
I tell him to go ahead, the lady at the Chamber of Commerce got permission from the police department.
He walks back home and I crawl into my tent for the night.
No cops arrive but the sprinkler system comes on at 2:00 in the morning! Fortunately I have the rain fly in place. Just the noise of the sprinkler water hitting the tent kept me awake for half an hour.
July 8th. Day 49.
An uneventful night once the sprinklers stop!
Passing the sights on my way out of town. Not really my kind of town.
Really, not my kind of town.
More signage and information along the way.
All the points of interest read and noted it is back to the grind.
Porcupine? Or rather, what's left of one.
Other road side casualties. Pretty sad with the stuffed animals stuck on the markers.
After fifty five miles I finally arrive in the town of Winnett, Montana. And not a moment too soon.
The weather wasn't all that threatening but I was done.
And fried!! Water blisters popping out on my arms and legs.
But hey! A shady town park and guess what?
It is located right beside the town swimming pool!!
I'm told I can use the port-a-pot across the street behind the church when the pool is closed.
Take a shower, go for a swim. Rest a while. Take another swim. Perfect!
What a nice little town. I think I will stay a while.
Passing the sights on my way out of town. Not really my kind of town.
Really, not my kind of town.
More signage and information along the way.
All the points of interest read and noted it is back to the grind.
Porcupine? Or rather, what's left of one.
Other road side casualties. Pretty sad with the stuffed animals stuck on the markers.
After fifty five miles I finally arrive in the town of Winnett, Montana. And not a moment too soon.
The weather wasn't all that threatening but I was done.
And fried!! Water blisters popping out on my arms and legs.
But hey! A shady town park and guess what?
It is located right beside the town swimming pool!!
Take a shower, go for a swim. Rest a while. Take another swim. Perfect!
July 9th. Day 50.
It's Saturday and I'm taking the day off.
In the Winnett Store I spotted this T-shirt. (In hind sight I wish I had bought one.)
A young kid on a bicycle has stopped by several times showing interest in who I am, where I have come from and where I am going. His name is Cory and he is staying with his grandparents in town. He comes by when I'm making my tea, interested in how my white gas stoves works, nice kid.
Later he comes by and I ask him to lead me on a tour around town. He leads off and I ride along behind him as he shows me the school, the business section and the far reaches of town. It doesn't take long! Nice and polite kid.
Right next to where I am camped, just on the other side of the fence, is Carroll Manuel. He saw me and Cory having a good time and decided to introduce himself. Soon brought over two chairs to sit on in the shade and then he brought out a history book that was about his life. He is the Outstanding Teamster for Montana for Horse Hitch. He tells me he broke and drove teams all his life and has traveled all over the world with horse teams for exhibitions. He is a very interesting man but deaf as a post. So, it was mostly a one way conversation.
He told me Winnett is in Petroleum County and Petroleum County is as large as Rhode Island! Yet, it has a population of 500!
Turns out today, Saturday, is the day for a benefit for the pool with barbecue, pop, chips and ice cream, lots of people and a good time had by all. My campsite is right in the midst of it all but am assured it is no problem and the good times roll on all around me!!
There are building in town available for your business, art gallery or whatever! Winnett is a nice little town.
In the Winnett Store I spotted this T-shirt. (In hind sight I wish I had bought one.)
A young kid on a bicycle has stopped by several times showing interest in who I am, where I have come from and where I am going. His name is Cory and he is staying with his grandparents in town. He comes by when I'm making my tea, interested in how my white gas stoves works, nice kid.
Later he comes by and I ask him to lead me on a tour around town. He leads off and I ride along behind him as he shows me the school, the business section and the far reaches of town. It doesn't take long! Nice and polite kid.
Right next to where I am camped, just on the other side of the fence, is Carroll Manuel. He saw me and Cory having a good time and decided to introduce himself. Soon brought over two chairs to sit on in the shade and then he brought out a history book that was about his life. He is the Outstanding Teamster for Montana for Horse Hitch. He tells me he broke and drove teams all his life and has traveled all over the world with horse teams for exhibitions. He is a very interesting man but deaf as a post. So, it was mostly a one way conversation.
He told me Winnett is in Petroleum County and Petroleum County is as large as Rhode Island! Yet, it has a population of 500!
Turns out today, Saturday, is the day for a benefit for the pool with barbecue, pop, chips and ice cream, lots of people and a good time had by all. My campsite is right in the midst of it all but am assured it is no problem and the good times roll on all around me!!
There are building in town available for your business, art gallery or whatever! Winnett is a nice little town.
July 10th. Day 51.
Up and at 'em. Sunday morning and I am rolling.
Not much shoulder. Not much traffic. Carroll Manuel told me to watch for his ranch. He told me where it starts and when it ends, seven miles later! Yes, his ranch is seven square miles! I don't know that I actually saw it, it all looks pretty much the same out here but it gave me something to think about as i rolled along.
But pretty soon it was me talking to the cows again, "99 cents? Only 99 cents! Let's buy it!!"
Bicycle, seven miles per hour.
The flooding Musselshell River buried a fence this fence in topsoil.
24 miles into my ride I come upon this rest stop. It is the only one I have seen in Montana and it is brand new and spectacular with lots of signage to read and ponder.
I use the facilities, fill my water bottles and take a break in the shade.
And then back into the heat and wind.
This road cut maybe shows some of the oil shale, or not.
44 miles. Sand Springs. I was looking forward to stopping here for cold chocolate milk and yogurt but the market is closed. Fortunately the hose bib on the outside of the building works and I top up my water bottles.
Pretty little Prong horn antelope. Recently hit by a vehicle. The eyes just starting to glaze.
Onward and onward and onward.
59 miles. Big Dry School. And that's all!
Hot but fortunately I have a tail wind.
Check it out. Seventy miles so far today.
Stopped for another photo op. Don't know why. Something about the erosion pattern I guess.
Finally, Jordan, Montana. A seventy-six mile day!!
A small town and a park and some picnic tables. No water or outhouse. But, I'll take it!
Whew!
Once I am sorted out and recovered, somewhat, I walk into town and have dinner.
Not much shoulder. Not much traffic. Carroll Manuel told me to watch for his ranch. He told me where it starts and when it ends, seven miles later! Yes, his ranch is seven square miles! I don't know that I actually saw it, it all looks pretty much the same out here but it gave me something to think about as i rolled along.
But pretty soon it was me talking to the cows again, "99 cents? Only 99 cents! Let's buy it!!"
Bicycle, seven miles per hour.
The flooding Musselshell River buried a fence this fence in topsoil.
24 miles into my ride I come upon this rest stop. It is the only one I have seen in Montana and it is brand new and spectacular with lots of signage to read and ponder.
I use the facilities, fill my water bottles and take a break in the shade.
And then back into the heat and wind.
This road cut maybe shows some of the oil shale, or not.
44 miles. Sand Springs. I was looking forward to stopping here for cold chocolate milk and yogurt but the market is closed. Fortunately the hose bib on the outside of the building works and I top up my water bottles.
Pretty little Prong horn antelope. Recently hit by a vehicle. The eyes just starting to glaze.
Onward and onward and onward.
59 miles. Big Dry School. And that's all!
Hot but fortunately I have a tail wind.
Check it out. Seventy miles so far today.
Stopped for another photo op. Don't know why. Something about the erosion pattern I guess.
Finally, Jordan, Montana. A seventy-six mile day!!
A small town and a park and some picnic tables. No water or outhouse. But, I'll take it!
Whew!
Once I am sorted out and recovered, somewhat, I walk into town and have dinner.
July 11th. Day 52
14 miles. Fourteen miles is as far as I get east of Jordan. The wind has shifted to head on and I am barely able to make progress. Plus it is hot again and no shade at all until I arrived at this de-horning, vacination machine. I park the bike beside it and crawl underneath into the only shady spot for miles!
I wait for a change in the wind, for the day to start to cool, something.
3:00 in the afternoon I returned to the highway and let the wind blow me back to Jordan. I roll into town and check into the Jordan Hotel. They have a room. I take it, grab the key, enter my room, turn the air conditioner on high, close the drapes, undress, cycle myself through the shower and fall onto the bed. Fork me. I am done.
The weather report on the TV says the unusual wind change will last on through the week with T-Storms.
In the evening I walk to the restaurant on the edge of town to have a steak and a Long Neck Bud. I get to talking to the people at the next table. I have decided to see if I can hitch a ride to Circle, Montana. They think there is a Senior Center bus that goes to Circle once or twice a week but they are not sure.
Back to the hotel/motel and the cooling noise of the air conditioner.
On my Montana map it shows an Amtrak Station in the town of Wolf Point sixty miles north of Circle. I have decided I have had enough. I am going to see if I can hitch a ride to Wolf Point.
July 12th. Day 53.
Wake up in a motel bed. The wind is still blowing and when I push aside the heavy window drapes I see the is getting hot already. A last check with the morning news, the weatherman says it is going to be T-storms all day and on into the weekend.
I turn in my key and ride my bike to the gas station/mini-mart. They serve breakfast and I have sausage and eggs, biscuits and gravy. Talking to the counter clerk he thinks the auto parts store up the street gets a delivery a couple times a week from Wolf Point, maybe I could snag a ride.
I ride to the auto parts store and the lady says there might be a delivery today but she is not sure. "You would have better luck at the gas station".
I sit in the shade at the gas station/mini-mart and ask each pickup driver that pulls in for fuel if they are heading for Circle. All of them are just in for fuel and groceries and heading back to their ranch. I wait.
At noon I decide to walk over to the library and find me a book to read. At the library they have a rack of paperbacks for only a dime each. I find a page turner and head back to the gas station. Along the way I walk by the Hotel/Motel I stayed in last night. I decided to enter and ask the lady if she has any ideas for a ride. She is having lunch with her girl friend and the girl friend tells me her ex husband is coming by to pick up their daughter and take her to Circle, maybe you can catch a ride with him. She whips out her cell phone, gives him a call and tell him about me needing a ride for me and my bicycle.
"No problem. He'll meet you at the gas station."
Amazing! I hot foot it back to the gas station and soon a refrigeration service truck pulls in. Seeing the bicycle and me he asks if I'm the guy looking for a ride to Circle.
"That be me!"
We pick up the bike and toss it in the back of the truck among refrigeration freon tanks and assorted gear, I hop in the passenger side, the daughter in the middle and away we go!!
They are interested in hearing my story and the miles roll by. Straight as a string. I point out the dehorning machine as we zip by it at seventy miles per hour! They sure drive fast around here but then I guess you have to if you want to get anywhere.
He tells me there is a motel and a town park in Circle. When we finally arrive the wind is still howling so I elect to go to the motel, no way I can set up a tent in this wind.
We unload me and my bike in the driveway of the motel. I enter the office and no one is there, I look around and the place is a real dump. The "office" is strewn with papers. I push the button to call attention but nothing happens. Strange.
Back outside the wind and heat is really something. Some guy is working at one of the units, notices me and walks over. I tell him I would like a room.
"No can do, we're filled up."
WTF! The place doesn't look filled up to me it looks more to me like someplace people rent for months at a time.
There is nothing for it but to try and hitch hike on to Wolf Point. He tells me my best chance would be to go over to the intersection and stick out my thumb.
I can hardly push my bike against the wind to the intersection but do. I park the bike on the Click Stand and wait for a vehicle. My bike blows over!! I pull it back up and get it better situated and my hat almost blows off. If it had I doubt I could run fast enough to catch it!! Jeez! What a wind!
About every twenty minutes a truck comes along and I stick out my thumb. They drive by looking at me and continue on. The cars I don't even bother with.
And, here comes another car, well, not really a car, it is more like a SUV but at the last minute I decide to stick my thumb out anyway and by golly, it pulls over and stops!! The guy hops out, comes around and opens the back hatch. The interior floor is covered with groceries in boxes. It looks like they have been shopping at Costco but he says, no they have been on vacation to South Dakota to see their gransdon. He pushes some stuff out of the way and helps me remove the panniers. We stuff them here and there and finally we lay my bike on top of the groceries!! There is just a bit of room behind the passenger seat for me. I hop in, he introduces me to his wife Cathryn. His name is Ken. And, away we go!
As we ride along I tell them my story and that I have finally had enough, I'm trying to get to the Wolf Point Amtrak Station so I can go home.
Cathryn tells me there aren't any trains running because of the major flooding in Minot, North Dakota!
I ask how long before they run again. She says, "let me check" and whips out her cell phone.
The answer turns out to be "Indefinitely!"
Hmmm. Well, how about the Grayhound. Is there a bus depot?
"No. No bus station in town."
Well, is there a motel in town where I can stay while I sort this out?
"We have three motels in town, let me give them a call", and she whips out her cell phone again.
Soon she has the answer. "Every motel in Wolf Point is full!!"
Ken explains that there is major oil industry boom going on in Wiliston, North Dakota and there is such a shortage of housing that workers are commuting from Wolf Point, 103 miles each way!
Oh boy. Now what?
Ken then mentions they have a 5th wheel trailer set up on their extra lot in town. I could stay there is I wanted, it is hooked up to power and sewer.
Perfect!!
Soon my bike and me are ensconced in their trailer!
Next problem. There is no AT&T cell service. My phone doesn't work.
No problem. Ken leaves his with me so I can make calls.
The deal was, my brother bought me the bike, my sister had offered to get me home. All I had to do was pedal!
Time to check out that theory.
I called my Sis, explained the situation.
Soon she and my brother-in-law call back. I now have a booked flight out of Wolf Point to Billings, Montana and from there to Seattle! Del, by brother-in-law, give me his UPS number so I can ship my bike!
I call Ken and Cathryn and tell them the plan. Ken says he will pick me and the bike up in the morning and take us to his wife's floral shop where she as boxes of all sizes! From there he will take me to the UPS station which is eight miles out of town and then get me to the airport in time for my 11:00 flight!
I spend the evening breaking my Long Haul Trucker down into smaller bits totally amazed that just ten hours earlier I was sitting outside the gas station in Jordan wondering it I was going to die!
Unbelievable!!
I turn in my key and ride my bike to the gas station/mini-mart. They serve breakfast and I have sausage and eggs, biscuits and gravy. Talking to the counter clerk he thinks the auto parts store up the street gets a delivery a couple times a week from Wolf Point, maybe I could snag a ride.
I ride to the auto parts store and the lady says there might be a delivery today but she is not sure. "You would have better luck at the gas station".
I sit in the shade at the gas station/mini-mart and ask each pickup driver that pulls in for fuel if they are heading for Circle. All of them are just in for fuel and groceries and heading back to their ranch. I wait.
At noon I decide to walk over to the library and find me a book to read. At the library they have a rack of paperbacks for only a dime each. I find a page turner and head back to the gas station. Along the way I walk by the Hotel/Motel I stayed in last night. I decided to enter and ask the lady if she has any ideas for a ride. She is having lunch with her girl friend and the girl friend tells me her ex husband is coming by to pick up their daughter and take her to Circle, maybe you can catch a ride with him. She whips out her cell phone, gives him a call and tell him about me needing a ride for me and my bicycle.
"No problem. He'll meet you at the gas station."
Amazing! I hot foot it back to the gas station and soon a refrigeration service truck pulls in. Seeing the bicycle and me he asks if I'm the guy looking for a ride to Circle.
"That be me!"
We pick up the bike and toss it in the back of the truck among refrigeration freon tanks and assorted gear, I hop in the passenger side, the daughter in the middle and away we go!!
They are interested in hearing my story and the miles roll by. Straight as a string. I point out the dehorning machine as we zip by it at seventy miles per hour! They sure drive fast around here but then I guess you have to if you want to get anywhere.
He tells me there is a motel and a town park in Circle. When we finally arrive the wind is still howling so I elect to go to the motel, no way I can set up a tent in this wind.
We unload me and my bike in the driveway of the motel. I enter the office and no one is there, I look around and the place is a real dump. The "office" is strewn with papers. I push the button to call attention but nothing happens. Strange.
Back outside the wind and heat is really something. Some guy is working at one of the units, notices me and walks over. I tell him I would like a room.
"No can do, we're filled up."
WTF! The place doesn't look filled up to me it looks more to me like someplace people rent for months at a time.
There is nothing for it but to try and hitch hike on to Wolf Point. He tells me my best chance would be to go over to the intersection and stick out my thumb.
I can hardly push my bike against the wind to the intersection but do. I park the bike on the Click Stand and wait for a vehicle. My bike blows over!! I pull it back up and get it better situated and my hat almost blows off. If it had I doubt I could run fast enough to catch it!! Jeez! What a wind!
About every twenty minutes a truck comes along and I stick out my thumb. They drive by looking at me and continue on. The cars I don't even bother with.
And, here comes another car, well, not really a car, it is more like a SUV but at the last minute I decide to stick my thumb out anyway and by golly, it pulls over and stops!! The guy hops out, comes around and opens the back hatch. The interior floor is covered with groceries in boxes. It looks like they have been shopping at Costco but he says, no they have been on vacation to South Dakota to see their gransdon. He pushes some stuff out of the way and helps me remove the panniers. We stuff them here and there and finally we lay my bike on top of the groceries!! There is just a bit of room behind the passenger seat for me. I hop in, he introduces me to his wife Cathryn. His name is Ken. And, away we go!
As we ride along I tell them my story and that I have finally had enough, I'm trying to get to the Wolf Point Amtrak Station so I can go home.
Cathryn tells me there aren't any trains running because of the major flooding in Minot, North Dakota!
I ask how long before they run again. She says, "let me check" and whips out her cell phone.
The answer turns out to be "Indefinitely!"
Hmmm. Well, how about the Grayhound. Is there a bus depot?
"No. No bus station in town."
Well, is there a motel in town where I can stay while I sort this out?
"We have three motels in town, let me give them a call", and she whips out her cell phone again.
Soon she has the answer. "Every motel in Wolf Point is full!!"
Ken explains that there is major oil industry boom going on in Wiliston, North Dakota and there is such a shortage of housing that workers are commuting from Wolf Point, 103 miles each way!
Oh boy. Now what?
Ken then mentions they have a 5th wheel trailer set up on their extra lot in town. I could stay there is I wanted, it is hooked up to power and sewer.
Perfect!!
Soon my bike and me are ensconced in their trailer!
Next problem. There is no AT&T cell service. My phone doesn't work.
No problem. Ken leaves his with me so I can make calls.
The deal was, my brother bought me the bike, my sister had offered to get me home. All I had to do was pedal!
Time to check out that theory.
I called my Sis, explained the situation.
Soon she and my brother-in-law call back. I now have a booked flight out of Wolf Point to Billings, Montana and from there to Seattle! Del, by brother-in-law, give me his UPS number so I can ship my bike!
I call Ken and Cathryn and tell them the plan. Ken says he will pick me and the bike up in the morning and take us to his wife's floral shop where she as boxes of all sizes! From there he will take me to the UPS station which is eight miles out of town and then get me to the airport in time for my 11:00 flight!
I spend the evening breaking my Long Haul Trucker down into smaller bits totally amazed that just ten hours earlier I was sitting outside the gas station in Jordan wondering it I was going to die!
Unbelievable!!
July 13th. Day 54.
True to his word, Ken arrives and we load my bike "parts" and panniers into his truck and head for his wife's Floral Shop.
Ken helps duct tape the boxes together.
We load them in the truck and off to the UPS we go which, for some reason...,
is located eight miles out of town!.
Arriving at the UPS center Ken knows the clerk because he is retired from the Wolf Point Post Office and he knows everybody around town.
We have time for a quick breakfast and then Ken takes me for a little drive to see what I missed.
This is the bridge over the Missouri River and the unbelievable flat land beyond! Gnats and mosquitoes are all over me when I step out to take this photo. They are everywhere. It is very hot, humid and windy. I believe I abandoned my adventure at exactly the right time.
Ken knows the ticket guy at the Wolf Point Gulfsteam International Airlines too!
After the one hour obligatory wait and a TSA pat down I am ready to board the plane.
Soon I and four other passengers are on our way to Billings, Montana.
Looking out the window I see what I am missing. I don't miss it at all!
A short lay-over in Billings, Montana, a change of planes, and by evening Lolli is driving me from the Seattle/Tacoma International Airport to her mom's house in Shoreline, Washington. It is a beautiful Pacific Northwest evening. Perfect mild temperature, no bugs, no wind. Riding along at 65 miles per hour through the evening traffic just sitting in the passenger seat talking with my wife.
Not the way I thought this would end but I am really counting my blessing for the "Bicycle Zen" of the last two days; hitching rides to Wolf Point, the generosity of Cathryn and Ken and especially, the "Extraction Team" gifts of Del and Diane.
Suddenly I am with my Lolli. I am one lucky guy!
Ken helps duct tape the boxes together.
We load them in the truck and off to the UPS we go which, for some reason...,
is located eight miles out of town!.
Arriving at the UPS center Ken knows the clerk because he is retired from the Wolf Point Post Office and he knows everybody around town.
We have time for a quick breakfast and then Ken takes me for a little drive to see what I missed.
This is the bridge over the Missouri River and the unbelievable flat land beyond! Gnats and mosquitoes are all over me when I step out to take this photo. They are everywhere. It is very hot, humid and windy. I believe I abandoned my adventure at exactly the right time.
Ken knows the ticket guy at the Wolf Point Gulfsteam International Airlines too!
After the one hour obligatory wait and a TSA pat down I am ready to board the plane.
Soon I and four other passengers are on our way to Billings, Montana.
Looking out the window I see what I am missing. I don't miss it at all!
A short lay-over in Billings, Montana, a change of planes, and by evening Lolli is driving me from the Seattle/Tacoma International Airport to her mom's house in Shoreline, Washington. It is a beautiful Pacific Northwest evening. Perfect mild temperature, no bugs, no wind. Riding along at 65 miles per hour through the evening traffic just sitting in the passenger seat talking with my wife.
Not the way I thought this would end but I am really counting my blessing for the "Bicycle Zen" of the last two days; hitching rides to Wolf Point, the generosity of Cathryn and Ken and especially, the "Extraction Team" gifts of Del and Diane.
Suddenly I am with my Lolli. I am one lucky guy!
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