Bicycling from Fort Bragg, CA to Wolf Point, MT

The Beginning....,


Why?

Well, let’s see.

I felt good about "Ronnie's Excellent Adventure", my "McGee Pass / Telescope Peak" solo seven day backpacking hike, my "Cache Creek" seven day solo backpacking trip, my Yolo Bolly seven day solo backpacking trip and the four day backpacking hike with Roger along the Skunk Train Tracks to Fort Bragg.  All these hikes done in my late sixties and soon I would be seventy!  What could I do that would be extra special for my seventies?  Roger was talking about maybe hiking the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada but the pre-planning and shipping of food and supplies to various general delivery post offices along the route was more than I could envision particularly after reading various PCT accounts by previous hikers no, bicycle camping seemed the way to go.  I already have my lightweight  backpacking gear, all I need is a bicycle.

I Googled around and soon came up with CrazyGuyOnABike or CGOAB, a website repository of thousands of folks who have traveled with bicycles; their stories and their equipment.  Soon I had fixed my mind on the Surley Long Haul Trucker.  I ordered one via Fort Bragg Cyclery and, while waiting for it to arrive, borrowed a “comfort bike” from my good friend Jim/Dug.  I started practicing riding, first around town and then out and back on the haul road.  Pretty easy.  By the time I had one hundred miles on Jim’s bike my Surley arrived at the bike shop.  Marc said they would have it assembled by Christmas Eve.

Chrismas Eve day at three in the afternoon Marc called and I walked over to pick it up.  There it stood in beautiful black and chrome.  I whipped out my plastic to pay for it and Marc said, no, "Santa already paid for it".

What?

Yep, it was already paid for.

After the shock wore off I queried Marc a bit more and he finally admitted that someone named Ken had paid for it.  Ken?  My baby brudder!!  Holy Smokes!  Talk about a Merry Christmas.  I called Ken and gave him hell and much thanks.  Unbelievable!

I walked the bike home.  No bike shoes, bike shorts or helmet, yet.  Not like the good ol’ days where you just jump on your bike and ride, no, now it is time for clipless bike shoes, bike shorts with chamois, padded bike gloves, bike helmet, fenders, bike headlight and taillight, and a bike computer to keep track of miles, altitude, time and temperature.  And then panniers.  I Google panniers and read all about them.  Ortlib seem the most bullet proof but quite pricy.  Finally I settle on Top Peak and order front, rear and handlebar bags.  Of course I need racks to hang the panniers on the bike.  Tubus had a nice set and I ordered them.  Almost the same cost for all the accessories as the bike itself!!

I start riding every day trying out various routes.  Out and back the haul road is nice but not much of a work out.  Up the Sherwood road is another story!  I ride each day what I feel like, hills some days, easy some days, further some days.

Finally I attempt riding to Mendocino and back, eighteen miles round trip.  Eventually to Mendocino, east on Little Lake and back on 409.  26 miles.

A baby overnight camping trip up Sherwood to test my panniers with a full load of camping gear that turns into a whole lot of pushing and struggle and not a lot of mileage.

And then I overdid it.  I pulled a hamstring in my right leg coming back from the Patti/Johnny/Sequoia trip.

I have to take it easy for several weeks prior to my big adventure and hope for the best.

The website www.nodirectionknown.com is the one that really got me inspired and first got me to thinking about Astoria to Yorktown, Virgina. 

And then the idea of riding up the coast to Astoria while waiting for the traditional June start.

Finally, the time seemed right.  Lolli is in Seattle taking care of her mom.  May First is arriving and I always say, "Hooray, Hooray, outside Bike Riding starts today!!

So, not really knowing what I am going to do except head north May 1st from FortBragg with three Adventure Cycling Adventure maps in my front pannier;CaliforniaOregon and Washington.


May 1st. Day One



7:45 AM.  Out the door!!  Ronnie’s 70th Adventure is officially underway, finally!  I have had the bike packed and ready to go for several days in the dining room!  During that time I have checked and rechecked, making sure I have everything.  One last night in bed to toss and turn, worry and stress and finally get up, have breakfast, button up the house and roll my Long Haul Trucker out the front door, through the gate to ride into the morning sunrise!

By 8:15 I am at Mackerriher State Park sitting on a picnic table taking a break.  It is a beautiful morning.  I couldn’t ask for better!

I did a mock run of this day several months earlier with Johnny, Patti and Sequoia when I joined them on their ride towards Portland as far as Rockport Campground so now I have a better idea what to expect this time around.  I know that feeling of turning off the bike trail from Mackerricher onto Highway One and heading north.  What it is like to ride Highway One with no shoulders.  Not as scary as I had originally thought.  The curves are generous and the sight lines are good especially because of the slower speed limit.  Plus it is easy to hear someone coming with time to squeeze over while they pass.  Soon I am past the Little Valley turnoff to the flying field.  The guys will be flying today but no flying for me.  I’m on my way!

Having learned from my hamstring experience I am taking it easy and making sure I “spin” up the hills rather than not shift down and push hard.  When it gets too steep to spin I get off and push.  I want to take it easy today and not suffer any setbacks in the leg department.  At the downhill and uphill just south of Westport I have to get off and push.  I don’t know if it is because the bike is heavier with a full load or if I am still a bit out of shape from my hamstring setback.  It seems I rode up this grade with Johnny Patti and Sequoiah but not this time.  Hmmm.


Arriving in Westport I buy a bagel, fill my water bottles and have a sit down snack at the picnic table across the street from the store.  What a beautiful day.


12:15  I have reached the point where HWY 1 turns inland and the start of the Rockport Grade.  It is an hphill mix of riding and pushing and by 1:35 I am over the top!  The last time I was up here with the Portland bunch it was sleeting!  This time it is a fun downhill ride and soon I am past the turn where Patti, Johnny, Sequoia and I spent the night at the Rockport Beach.  I am now riding my bike into un-ridden territory!  I am officially on my way!!

It is a nice flat ride and I start thinking about finding a place to fill my water bottles and wondering where I will camp for the night.  I want to get close to the start of the Leggett grade but not past my last chance for creek water.

At thirty miles from Fort Bragg I happen upon a closed logging gate and see that the logging road crosses a creek and travels south along the opposite side.  I park the bike, hop the gate and take a walk to check it out.  It looks good even though there are recent truck tracks indicating activity but hey!, it is after four in the afternoon and every good logger should be heading home by now.  Back to the bike, slide it under the gate, walk it over the bridge and then along the logging road looking for “my spot”.  I want to find a place that isn’t noticeable from the logging road or the highway.  The area is quite wooded with ground sloping down to the creek.  I find a place where I can get down off the logging road towards the creek and mostly out of sight.  There are a lot of large ferns.  Sunlight is filtering through the redwoods.  Perfect!  There are some log rounds someone cut with a chainsaw so I grab a few and carry them over to my camp for use as a cooking table and to sit upon.  Up with my MSR Hubba tent, blow up my Neo Air  air mattress and out with my MSR International cooking stove and food bag.  It is time for black bean tacos!


After dinner I walk further out the logging road.  It runs alongside the creek a ways and then up into the hills.  Along the way I come across a nice big pile of bear scat.  Not too fresh.  I’m not worried.



Back to my tent and settle into a great night of sleep with Cottaneva Creek murmuring in the background.


Fort Bragg to first Stealth camp, 30.05 miles.

May 2nd. Day two.

Oh boy, this is the day I have been worrying about.  Leggett Hill.  1,800 feet of up!

I discover some rodent has gotten into my Ziploc bag of trail mix during the night.  One corner of the bag has been chewed open and every cashew is gone!!  The coconut and the dehydrated cranberries are still in the bag but all the cashews, my favorite part of this trail mix, is gone!!

I cook oatmeal with raisins and brown sugar and then finish packing.  It is a sunny day coming on.  Walk the bike up through the ferns to the logging road and back to the logging gate, park and find a way down through the brush to the stream to top off my water bottles with my Katadyn water filter.

8:20 AM.  I’m ready.  The bike altimeter shows I am at 131 feet of elevation as I start up the Leggett Grade.  


At 243 feet I find parts of a rear derailleur hanging on a road side marker!  Not a good sign!  The road becomes steeper and I wind up having to push the bike from 400 to 500 feet. 


I am able to ride to 800, walk to 900 and then remove my shirt.  I’m getting warm!  


At 1,000 feet I stop for a break and some “snackage”, write in my notebook.  At 1,100 I discover I left my notebook at 1,000!  Coast back down to get it and re-ride the 100 feet back up to 1,100 feet!  Bummer!



At Hales Grove there is some easy up and down riding for a ways and then up and up.  I am able to ride to 1,320 before pushing again.  At 1,400 a guy on a touring bike whizzes by me downhill and shouts “Hi”.  He is doing the fun part!  Then another guy appears and this one stops.  He is Thomas from Belgium riding a green Long Haul Trucker!!  He is doing the Pacific Coast Trail from Vancouver,BC to San Diego.  "Having a great time!"

Onward.  I stop for a break at every 100 feet of elevation gain.  1,500, 1,610, 1,700.  I finally reach 1,800 but is it the top?  At 1,817 I arrive at the spring at mile marker 100.51 and yes, by golly, I have conquered Leggett Hill!!  I refill my water bottles with wonderful cold spring water.  It is 12:30.  Four hours to climb Leggett Hill!



I try both sides of the hill for cell coverage but there are no bars.  I have to keep my exciting news to myself. 



Now, a fast four mile ride down to the bridge into Leggett.  I have to constantly stay on the brakes to keep my speed down around 25 mph.  In fifteen minutes I am down on the bridge across the Eel River at 740 feet elevation!  Then a steep walk up towards HYW 101.  



I did it!!

I ride into Leggett but nothing is open except the gas station.  I check my GPS and discover it is only 1.4 miles to Standish Hickey State Park.



1.4 miles of introduction to HWY 101 with semi tractor trailers, motor homes and cars whizzing by at 65 miles per hour!  What a change from the much quieter HWY 1.




2:40 PM and I am in campsite #32.  Five dollars for the campsite and four quarters for the shower!  As I am setting up my tent I notice someone ride by with panniers.  I hop on my bike and catch up with them to discover she is Megan fromCanada riding to San Diego.  She has just stopped for lunch and is hoping to catch up with Thomas from Belgium.  Good luck!!!

I walk across the highway to the market, buy a beer and four deviled eggs!  I didn’t realize I had a hunger for deviled eggs until I saw them in the cooler and then I couldn’t resist!

Back to camp and after a beer, four deviled eggs and a shower I grab my book and find a nice sunny spot to sit and enjoy the remainder of the day.  Unbelievable, Leggett Hill is now a thing of the past!!  I actually did it and I don’t feel all that bad!!!


May 3rd. Day 3.



Leave Standish Hicky State Park and back onto HWY 101.


I arrive at the Richardson Grove section of the highway where the road is very narrow, no shoulder, with big redwood trees squeezing the road.  Semi-trucks, motor-homes and people in a hurry.  I have my tail light strobe light on and I'm wearing my dayglow vest, doing my best to be seen while riding the four inch wide fog line.  By golly, most trucks and cars give me as much room as they can, some even slow down and wait until it is safe to pass by.  


When I reach the entrance to Richardson Grove State Park I pull in and take a break from the traffic but skip visiting the park.  I just want to eat some snackage while my heart rate settles down!


And then, re-enter the fray.  Out of the park and up a long hill heading north.  The turn off onto Benbow Drive appears.  Whew!  Nice to get off onto a bucolic two lane road with almost no traffic.  


This demonstrates the lack of traffic.  Set my camera for thirty second delay, walk back to my bike and pose!!  Unfortunately, one more mile and I am back on 101.


This is the new bridge that, it is said, has a roadbed higher than the Golden Gate Bridge!  Hard to tell.


Next, off 101 onto HWY 271.  I ride past the swimming hole Lolli and I have visited several times.  It is too much of a down hill on loose gravel, and back!, to be worth a swim.  



Further on I meet a guy riding his bike for exercise.  He is interested in my touring set-up.  He has been reading CrazyGuyOnABike.com.  He says he has always wanted to do a bike tour and now that his son is in highschool, maybe he will.  Nice guy.


A few more miles and back onto HWY 101 and into the heat of the day.  I finally have to get off the bike and push up a long hill into a strong headwind  I work up quite a sweat while the traffic hammers by me.  I happen upon a fishing boat flag beside the road.  It is a dayglow orange triangle with the word “STRIPPER” on one side.  The fiberglass pole it is attached to is quite weather worn.  I get rid of the pole and attach the flag to a rear pannier to help traffic notice me.

Finally, the turn off to Garberville!  I coast into town and pick my way through the milling traffic until I spot a drive in!  Park in the shade and order a chocolate shake.  Five Dollars!!  But oh is it good!  I check my cell phone and yes!  Full bars!  I have a nice long talk with my Lolli and then call my brother and give him an update.

I get directions from the milk shake lady to the Garberville Library, ride over to it, and discover it is closed on Wednesdays!!  Oh well, onward to find a grocery store, buy a few items and head for Redway.


Too soon I am back onto HWY 101 and ride past the big slide of last winter. Heroic work going on.


It is really hot riding in the sun on HWY 101 but then the turn off for the "Avenue of the Giants" appears!  Finally, some shade.  Perfect!

No "Giants" for a while but then they start to appear.  I stop at a market and buy a small bottle of Tylenol and a bottle of Fetzer’s Merlot.  I'm going to celebrate my first, over thirty mile, ride!  The person running the market tells me it is about six more miles to a campground.  When I get to the campground it turns out to be more of a trailer park than campground.  I decide to keep going.  Soon I see a nice little area in a redwood grove beside the road, pull over, and walk my bike behind a tree.  There is very little under story except for a few downed branches and some ferns.  Perfect!  

I start to set up my camp behind a big redwood but then decide to move further into the woods by a nice little stream.




Get the tent set up and the air mattress and sleeping bag installed and start cooking dinner.  I discover I don't have a cork screw with me but then notice this Fetzer wine bottle has a plastic cork.  I am able to pry the cork out with one of the tools on my Leatherman (don’t leave home without it)!

It is getting quite dark when I notice a flash!  And then another!!  Some tourists are walking around the redwood tree I had almost camped behind, taking photos of each other!  Good thing I decided to move deeper into the woods or I might have become their Sashquatch!!


May 4th. Day 4.



Up in the morning and back onto the Avenue of the Giants.  Mid morning I arrive at Myers Flats.  I notice two touring bikes parked in front of an espresso store called,“The Daily Grind”.  The bike couple are sitting on a bench enjoying their drinks.  I talk to them and discover they drove their car from Chicago to CrescentCity and are now riding their bikes from Crescent City to Santa Barbara where they have friends.  He is 71 years old.  She is sixty something.  They are pulling BOB trailers.  They warn me the espresso store owner is very grumpy.  I walk into The Daily Grind and order a smoothie and yes, the owner is very grumpy. 

“What do you want?”  “What flavor?”  “That’s five dollars.”

I rejoined the bike riders on the bench outside.

The lady from Chicago suddenly realizes she can't find her sun glasses.  We look all around and decide she must have left them on the counter in The Daily Grind.  She goes back inside and asks Mr. Grumpy if he has seen her sun glasses.  Of course he says, “No!” 

She comes back out and we speculate about the pile of sunglasses Mr. Grumpy must have behind the counter!!

Three guys on Harley’s arrive and commence arguing among themselves as to who will go in and order drinks.  They have been here before and know about Mr. Grumpy!!  And, here I thought he just hated bicyclists!!   What an interesting advertising ploy, to be famous for being nasty!!

I step into the market next door and buy a 4 pack of AA batteries; my camera has been giving me a “low battery” warning.

Soon, we all return to "the road".


In a few miles I happen upon a day use park, stop and take a break, spread my sleeping bag out on a picnic table to air out and charge my cell phone with the solar panel my brother gave me for my birthday.  While that's happening I walk down to the Eel River and fill my water bottles.


Mid afternoon I arrive at a traffic stop.  I ask the highway patrolman what’s happening.  Turns out there is a VW commercial photo shoot happening.  I park my bike to see what is going on.  There is a lot of equipment, big semi truck trailer full of equipment, catering trucks, Ad people, cameramen and assistants standing around.  Evidently they are all waiting for the sun to “get right”.  I’ve seen enough, return to the patrol man and get permission to ride on.


I am enjoying this ride along the Eel River, up and down wooded hills, but the day is wearing on.  My ACA map shows a campground symbol by the town of Holmes.  I arrive at a “Holmes” sign by an intersection but I don't see any sign of a town or campground.   I stop a woman driving by and ask her if she knows where the campground is.  She has no idea.  Another guys stops and I ask him.  He too has no idea!

Onward towards Stafford.  And then, a Good Sam Trailer park appears.  Maybe this is the reason for the campground symbol.  I'm still getting use to these ACA maps.

I pull up to the gift shop/office.  There are two guys on duty.  I ask if there is a State Park nearby.


"Nope, no state park.  We are it and you can put your tent anywhere you want.  There are showers too."

I buy an ice cream bar and look around.  They have a lot of nice gift and souvenir items.  I tell them it is a good thing I am traveling on a bike, I have no room for some of their nice wood carvings.  They tell me they can ship anything!  I finish my ice cream and decide to move on.  It is just too commercial a place to be tucked in among motor homes and fifth wheel trailers.


Fifteen minutes later I arrive at, Shively Rd.   I can see that Shively Road crosses the Eel River but only in summer when the river is low.  There is a removable bridge sitting on the bank so, currently, Shively Road is just a dead end and perfect for me.  I walk down and find a small grove of skinny pine trees with no understory.  I bring the bike down and wander around a bit until I find a nice flat spot "mostly" out of sight, park the bike, get out my ground cloth and set up the tent.  It is a beautiful warm evening and for the first time I do not put on the rain fly. 




I cook dinner sitting on the bank of the Eel River.  I discover, surprisingly, there is good cell coverage.  I filter water from the Eel and top up my water bottles.  Such a beautiful evening.


Time to lay down and enjoy the evening sky through the tent mosquito netting.  I can see lights on the trees, now and then, of a passing car up on the road.

Strange.  Here I had spent months worrying about Leggett Hill and Highway One and now that is all behind me.  I realize I have not given much thought beyond Leggett and Highway One.  Now I’m in sort of  a “What’s Next” mode.  I guess that's the next thing to worry about since it seems I like to worry.

Cinco de Mayo. Day 5.




My stealth camp was fine.  A good night’s sleep.

I enjoy my tea and oat meal sitting on the bank of the Eel River watching ducks and geese fly low over the water.  There are a group of geese in a backwater and they raise a chorus every time other geese fly by.  They did invent the cell phone, you know!

Back to the road.


I ride through Redcrest and further up the road I see a corn cob shaped monument.  


It reads:

"To Pepperwood
And It’s Loved Ones
Gone But Not Forgotten"

A lot of the old lumbering towns in this area are gone.

A few more miles and I am back on HWY 101.   Some folks on a Harley blast by and, as I ride along, I think about what they see compared me.  They are traveling around 65 mph and I am poking along at 7.  


And then, sitting on a guard rail post, I see someone has placed a small animal skull.




 I’m sure the Harley riders missed it!!

Next, my turn off to Scotia.  Yippee!  Away from HWY 101 again!

Down to Scotia and right to the girder bridge over the Eel River to Rio Del.  


Time for a photo op!  This bridge was built in 1940, the same year I was conceived!!


Over the bridge and suddenly I find, “What’s next”!  What’s next is a hamburger stand!  I try riding past but my bike “automatically” turns in!!  Suddenly I realize, I’m HUNGRY!


This is a great, small town, mom and pop burger stand!  I order a big cheese burger, chocolate shake and fries and then wait on the deck, in the sun, at one of the tables.




Sunshine!!  The sun was slow arriving this morning but by the time my order comes up it is spectacular!!  Sunshine makes me happy!  And the burger, boy o boy, is it good.  My first dining out experience since leaving Fort Bragg and..., about time!!


From Rio Del the American Cycle Association map puts me on back roads toFerndale.  Now that the sun is out I bungee the GoalZero (solar panel) onto the back of my bike and charge the cell phone as I ride.

I come upon some short, and serious, ups and downs.  A couple of them make me get off and push.  Grizzly Bluff Road!  Uff Da!!  Up and down, up and down but finally, out onto nice flat dairy farming land.





Large dairy’s and lots of cows.  There is a headwind from the north but not too strong and I know Ferndale is getting closer and closer. 

A final up, past the Ferndale cemetery, and down into Ferndale!  Yippee!  Only 2:30 in the afternoon.

I visit The Hobart Brown Kinetic Sculpture Museum and then ride out to the Humboldt County Fairgrounds camping area recommended by ACA map.

Park my bike and walk into the office.  The manager lady welcomes me and tells me I can camp anywhere I like and the showers are free!  Holy Smokes!  This is the best welcome I have had since I started my ride!!



A little more conversation and she realizes I am NOT here for the “Tour of the Unknown Coast" bike race” no, I am just touring on my bike looking for a place to spend the night.  “Oh.  That will be $10.00 please!”   Bummer!  I should have kept my mouth shut!!


I wander around looking for my spot away from the motor homes and trailers.  Bike enthusiasts are arriving.  Once my tent is up I partake of the showers and rinse my biking clothes.  I have two sets.  Back at the tent I rig a clothes line between two trees and hang my wash.  The coastal marine layer has returned and it may be a while before they dry.



I ride into town to have dinner at a Mexican Restaurant, after all, today is Cinco de Mayo!  During my two chicken enchiladas and Negro Modelo I decide to take a day off to see what the Unknown Coast bike race is all about.  


May 6th. Rest Day


I wake to a foggy damp morning.  My throat is almost closed!  I have a hard time speaking!  It seems I am having my very first allergic reaction to pollen or cut grass or something.  My next door tent camper gives me some Benadryl.  It helps.

My clothes are damp on the clothes line.  I take them over to the restroom and use the “blow-dryer” to help them dry.

I decide to ride into town for breakfast.  Riding my bike feels good and helps warm me.

 I ask some people in town where’s the best place for breakfast? 

“Papa Joe’s, just up the street."

Papa Joe’s is in an old Victorian Building on the main drag.  The inside looks just like I hoped.  I ask the waitress if it is okay to bring in my bike where I can keep an eye on it.


“No problem”!


Oh boy, sausage and eggs, home fries and an English muffin!  


I sit at the counter and watch the "very professional" cook at the range keep up with the orders.  In the back of the restaurant I notice guys sitting around two tables.  It looks like they are playing poker!!  I ask the cook about them.


"They are local dairymen.  They finish milking by five in the morning, come here, let themselves in with their key, put on the coffee and play cards.  I arrive at six and start breakfast!!"

Is that cool, or what!  I love small towns!


The library is open  Not only do they have computers, they have Picassa on the computers so I can upload some photos to my blog!



At the fair grounds riders are setting up their tents.  


Walking around I see this is quite a big deal.  The fair grounds meeting hall set up for registration.  The kitchen/dining hall is getting ready to feed the riders dinner and breakfast.  A lot of booths are being set up to sell cycling equipment and clothes.

In the evening a documentary is shown in the hall about the Annual bicycle race from San Diego to Atlanta.  I find it interesting but ultimately gruesome.  The winning rider rode nine days on eleven hours of sleep!!  He didn't stop until the second night but for only one hour!  He was carried off his bike to a motor home for an IV drip while his muscles were massaged!  He slept during that and was then carried back to his bike and sent on his way!  When he stepped up on the podium in Atlanta for the first place trophy he didn’t seem to know who he was or where he was!!  Another competitor, a surgeon with a wife and two children, fell asleep late in the race, hit an oncoming car and was killed instantly!

The movie over, I return to my tent happy in the knowledge I am just a lowly bicycle tourist!

May 7th. Day 7.


While I sleep the, Two Hundred Mile, riders leave at 5:30 AM.

The One Hundred Mile riders leave at 7:30 AM during my tea and oatmeal!


The Fifty Mile riders start gathering for the 8:30 send off.  This guy built his own bike and is very proud of it.


I spot Paul, Eleanor’s son.  He and his friend are here from AshlandOregon.




I photograph their departure, return to my campsite, load my panniers and leave the fairgrounds at 9:00 AM.


The historic Fernbridge.  I have driven over it, camped under it but never crossed it by bicycle, until now!


I let these guys go first!


I ask someone about this paint job.  They thought it is a protest about some zoning issue.


It is a nice ride on the old highway to Loleta.  


The old highway crosses HWY 101 onto Tompkins Hill Road.  Swiss Hall was probably built by Swiss dairy farmers.  I also discover why "Hill" is part of the name of this road!!


 At the north end of Tompkins Hill Road is the College of the Redwood campus.  I am insulted by their sign!

Back onto HWY 101. 


Eureka!  I made it!  At least as far as Eureka, CA!


The ACA map takes me along the west side on old streets past former businesses and industry.


I do see the Carson Mansion in the distance.  This is a very different view of town from what Lolli and I usually see when driving through on HWY 101 thanks to bicycling.  I like it.

Return to HWY 101 at the north end of town and onto the seven and a half miles of, “Speed restricted to 50 mph”!  Anyone who has driven this section knows exactly what I am talking about.  I have seen cyclists riding this section before and now I am one of them!


Halfway along I stop to rest and snack by a Caltrans yard. I pose my bike for a photo by a statue of the California Golden Bear.


Arcata, CA.!  Off HWY 101 and up the hill to the Humboldt University, left over 101 and down and out onto farming and marsh land on a very nice bike path.  Good on you Arcata!!


I meet a rider.  His name is Dominic and he lives near McKinleyville.  As we ride along I ask him about places to camp around McKinleyville. 

“Why not stay at my house?”

Perfect!


He takes the lead.  We arrive at his house.  It is the last house west of McKinleyville!  Nothing but bluff and slough and Pacific Ocean.  Awesome!

“Make yourself to home”.  I do!  Lolli and I have hosted cycle tourists several times and I guess this is the "Cycling Karma" I have heard about.

 "Pay Back"!

I shower while Dominic cooks rice and beans and makes a salad.  Being a cyclist he knows good cycling food!  He has an interesting selection of beer  in the refrigerator too!!


 Yep, a cyclist lives here!!


He offers his laptop so I can catch up on my blog.  After a couple hours of blogging and bike talk I lay my sleeping bag on the couch and enter the sleep of the dead.   What a wonderful end to a 44 mile day.


May 8th. Day 8.


In the morning Dominic fries bacon and eggs.  He tells me about the biking group he rides with each Sunday morning  They are riding to Trinidad this morning.

"Would I like to ride along?"


Perfect!  We have to hustle to get to the corner market where they meet at 8:00 AM.

Away we go!  


The ride is on bike trails and secondary roads.  A beautiful morning ride.

8.5 miles to Trinidad.  We stop for a break at a small cafe and have espressos, muffins, smoothies and visit gathered at a picnic table in the sun.

Trinidad is their turn around point.  They wish me luck.  A nice bunch of folks.  On with my helmet and gloves, out the parking lot and north on the old highway alongside HWY 101.


6 miles I come upon the entrance to Patrick Point State Park.  Lolli and I, Ed and Suzanne, camped here one time in our Vanagons during Thanksgiving Weekend.  It poured rain and the raccoons broke into the cooler and ate the turkey and drank the egg nog!!   A memorable weekend!


This time all is quite and peaceful!

14 miles to OrickCA.  I hope to find a campground but riding through, no campground do I see.

At the only open CafĂ© and ask. 

"Nope!  No campground.  There might be one six miles up the road."

I order a hot fudge Sunday; cool off, and ponder the situation.

Back onto HWY 101.  It is late in the afternoon and quite warm.  I’m ready to call it a day but, riding along,  I don’t see any opportunities for a stealth camp.

I arrive at the turn off onto the Newton B. Drury Parkway.  Yippee!  Off of 101 and into some shade!

In a few more miles.  I see the sign for Drury State Park.  Whew!

Turn into the campground and discover it is spread way out.  After some more riding I finally find a nice place; picnic table, fire ring, and water faucet.  The restroom and shows are right over there!  Perfect!

I set up my tent up and am busy blowing up my air mattress when a Rangette arrives in her Cushman scooter/truck.  She says, "You can’t camp here.  You must move to the Hiker/Biker area".

Evidently she notices I look a bit tired and feeble so offers to haul my unpacked stuff in the back of her scooter/truck to my new campsite.  Away we go, me riding along behind the Cushman scooter/truck in exhaust fumes.  

Of course, the Hiker/Biker section is way off in the southern most part of the park, several blocks from the restrooms and shower.  I see the grass has not been cut.

Okay.  Fine!  Good enough!

I drag my bike and stuff to the picnic table and start over.

I'm about set up when a cycle tourist shows up.  "Hey!  Hey!"

Rafael from Belgium!!  He picks a camp site two spots away.  After he is set up we talk.  He asks about showers.  I point towards where I last saw them!!


Roosevelt Elk are grazing their way through camp.  Big monsters but they are only interested in the..., hummm, uncut grass?

Another cycling couple arrive and set up between Rafael and I.  Turns out she is from VancouverBC and he is from Seattle.  They met during their ride.

Rafael rides an interesting touring bike made in Holland.  Very sturdy.  It has a generator front hub and hydraulic brakes.  He has Ortlib panniers.  He tells me he has toured all over Europe and to the north of Sweden.  His plan is to ride toOregon and then across the United States via the “Northern Tier” Adventure Cycling bike route, and eventually arrive at the end of the road in Nova Scotia.  Then down to Boston and fly home!

I discover he is a ham operator and has a small Uniden “transceiver” with him powered by a Lithium Polymer battery.  He uses a sling-shot to launch a string up over a branch, then pulls the dipole antenna up and stakes it out.  When the sun goes down he is able to “work skip”, DX-ing all over the world.  Often times he is able to talk to friends in Belgium!

All his camping gear is first rate and well thought out.  His sleeping bag is made by Hagloff.  He said it has chemicals that adjust to temperature so it is warmer when cold and cooler when warm.  I don’t know if I can believe everything he says but he definitely knows how to bike tour.  I wish I could keep up with him for a while and learn his ways but he is quite a bit younger than I and rides quite a bit farther per day than my todays effort of 38.5 miles.

The good new is, the hot shower is awesome!!


May 9th. Day 9.



I wake to a beautiful morning!

My fellow campers and I pack at various speeds for our return to the road.  Overhearing the conversation of the couple next to me, as they make breakfast and break camp, it doesn’t sound like they will tour together much longer!!


The "Bickersons" and Rafael.

In any case, I am the first one on the road.  It is a nice, but cool, morning.  Low lying fog in places but blue sky overhead.  Perfect riding!


In a few miles I leave the wonderful, peaceful, Newton B. Drury Parkway and return to the business of HWY 101.  Five more miles, over the bridge just south of Klamath and I turn towards a gas station/mini mart/Subway.  I order a teriyaki chicken/onion sandwich on flat bread.  I am quite leery about leaving my bike out of my sight while waiting and ask the guard in his booth if he will keep an eye on my bike for me.  He indicates the TV monitors in front of him and I see my bike and realize he is "Security" for this building which also houses slot machines!!  I am on tribal land and this is, among other things, a mini casino!  I enjoy my sandwich outside on a picnic table near my bike.  Just in case!

Today, being Monday, I would like to weigh myself.  My brother, sister and I have been having a “Wait Wace” for over a year.   Each Monday we e-mail each other our current weight.

I ride over to the tribal office, park the bike and inquire at the front desk about the possibility of them having a bathroom scale.  Nope.  They don’t have one, “Try the Health Clinic up the street”.

I pedal to the  health clinic but no joy, they are closed on Mondays.  Bummer.


I ride over to this Golden Bear for a photo opportunity before pressing on.  I think he smells a Snickers Bar in my handlebar bag!

Back out on 101 I see a couple heading south on touring bikes.  I pop over to say hi.  She is from San Francisco and he is from Scotland.  They met in Thailand six years ago while hiking and have stayed in touch.  Recently they decided to get together and ride the Pacific Coast.  They flew to Vancouver, BC from their respective locations, looked for and bought second hand bikes in a Vancouver bike store, rode to various thrift shops for clothes, sleeping bags and tent and now, here they are, heading for San Diego!!


While we are talking Rafael arrives and joins the conversation!  I talk them into posing for a "Silly Shot"!  What great fun but soon we need to resume our individual adventures.  I really enjoy meeting and talking to “fellow” traveling cyclists, they are all so upbeat and inspiring!

Onward, into the afternoon. 


I arrive at a famous tourist trap, "Trees of Mystery" and, of course, have to take my photo by Paul Bunyon and his Blue Ox Babe.


And then, a close up of, "Babe's" blue balls!!

Onward.

I want to find my place to camp before taking on the hills this side of CrescentCity.  My ACA map shows me those hills will take me to 1,200 feet above sea level!

4:30 PM.   I arrive at the Wilson Creek bridge.  On my right is an American Youth Hostel.  Yippee!  Pulling up to the gate I see it is closed and locked.  Stepping over the gate I walk around to the back to check things out.


A sign on the building states it is closed “permanently” as of September, 2010.  Way too bad, it is such a nice old Victorian style house.


Fortunately the parking lot is out of sight of the highway and away from road noise but it is also packed gravel and sloping.  I find an “almost” level spot and gather some downed tree branches to use as anchors to tie my tent to in lieu of stakes; the gravel surface is too hard to pound a stake into but, hey!  It'll do!

An easy day.  17 miles



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